Tucked into a remote part of Epirus, Greece’s northwest region of Zagori is an off-the-radar slice of wild beauty and ancient tradition. Its wilderness is a great place to escape the summer crowds, and the Pindos Mountains ski resorts are a top draw in winter. Here are our highlights not to miss.
## Discover the Enchanting Region of Zagori: A Greek Escape
It’s truly remarkable, considering the breathtaking mountainous beauty that defines Zagori, how relatively few travelers venture into this captivating region. Here, the essence of traditional Greece remains vibrantly alive, offering an authentic experience far removed from the bustling tourist hubs. This authenticity manifests itself in the sleepy, time-honored hamlets and villages, many dating back a thousand years, nestled peacefully below the majestic, pine-clad slopes of the Pindos Mountains. These quaint settlements seem to exist in a world of their own, untouched by the relentless march of time.
The landscape is further sculpted by the awe-inspiring Vikos Gorge, a protected UNESCO World Heritage site that dramatically cuts through the heart of the mountain range. According to the esteemed Guinness Book of Records, this geological marvel is recognized as the deepest canyon in the world, a testament to the raw power and beauty of nature’s artistry. The sheer scale and grandeur of the gorge are truly humbling, offering a visual spectacle that will remain etched in your memory long after you depart.
The Vikos Gorge lies at the very heart of not one, but two national parks, meticulously preserved havens dedicated to safeguarding endangered flora and fauna. These parks provide critical refuge for a diverse array of species, contributing to the preservation of the region’s rich biodiversity. Within these protected areas, you can witness the delicate balance of nature, a testament to the importance of conservation efforts.
For hiking enthusiasts, Zagori represents a true nirvana. A network of meticulously maintained trails, often lined with vibrant orchids, gracefully winds through the region, connecting its 40 or so villages via ancient staircases and picturesque stone bridges. These ancient pathways offer a unique opportunity to explore the region at your own pace, immersing yourself in the stunning natural beauty and the rich cultural heritage that defines Zagori.
Beyond hiking, Zagori offers a diverse range of activities to suit every taste. Kayaking and whitewater rafting opportunities abound in the region’s pristine rivers, providing an exhilarating way to experience the natural landscape. In winter, the slopes transform into a winter wonderland, offering excellent skiing opportunities. Furthermore, Ioannina, a relaxed and charming lakeside town, offers a wealth of attractions to captivate your attention. With its hilltop castle, fascinating museums, and restaurants serving delectable herb-infused cuisine and the finest local wines, Ioannina is a destination in itself. To fully appreciate the region, allocate at least one day to explore the charming town of Ioannina and a further three days to immerse yourself in the wonders of the gorge and the rest of Zagori’s captivating landscapes.
## Unveiling the Charms of Ioannina
Ioannina, the vibrant provincial capital, serves as a logical and convenient base for exploring the wider Zagori region. As a charming and relaxed university town gracefully situated on the western shores of the serene Lake Pamvotida, Ioannina exudes a captivating atmosphere. Its historic center remains remarkably intact, protected by imposing fortified walls that whisper tales of a rich and storied past.
The city’s rich Byzantine and Ottoman heritage comes vividly to life within the well-preserved Kastro (castle). This magnificent structure, initiated in 528 CE by the visionary Emperor Justinian, holds the distinction of being Greece’s oldest castle, a remarkable testament to the region’s long and fascinating history. The castle attained its zenith during the Ottoman Empire, a period that saw the addition of a lavish harem and the iconic Fethiye Mosque. This erstwhile mosque now houses the fascinating Municipal Ethnographic Museum of Ioannina, showcasing a captivating miscellany of historical artifacts that honor the Islamic and, intriguingly, Jewish heritage of the town, offering a unique glimpse into the city’s diverse cultural tapestry. Within the Kastro precincts, be sure not to miss the tomb of the enigmatic regional ruler Ali Pasha (1740-1822), a figure who played a significant role in the region’s history.
Just a short five-minute walk southwest of the old town brings you to the unmissable Archaeological Museum of Ioannina, a treasure trove of artifacts spanning eons, from the Neolithic times to the late Roman period. This museum offers a comprehensive overview of the region’s rich archaeological heritage, providing invaluable insights into the lives and cultures of those who inhabited this land throughout the ages. During ancient times, the strategically important road linking Rome and Constantinople, known as the “Egnatia,” ran directly through Ioannina, lending the city immense importance and contributing to its growth and prosperity.
Ioannina’s other major draw is undoubtedly the picturesque lake, particularly enchanting in the spring season when wildflowers burst into bloom and the surrounding forests transform into a vibrant tapestry of green. Take a leisurely stroll along the lakefront promenade, soaking in the tranquil atmosphere and admiring the stunning views. Alternatively, hop on a water-taxi to Ioannina Island, a small but significant island home to no less than seven monasteries, each with its own unique history and architectural style. One such monastery is Moni Strategopoulos, renowned for its impressive collection of well-preserved frescoes that depict scenes from religious and historical narratives.
Ioannina is also richly endowed with a plethora of excellent restaurants, catering to a wide range of culinary preferences. Indulge in the sampling of local delicacies at cozy tavernas and traditional mezedopoleia—small, family-run eateries serving an array of savory tapas-like treats, including the adventurous frog’s legs, all accompanied by the delightful flavors of local wine. Consider paying a visit to Domaine Glinavos, a renowned winery that produces exceptional dry whites, sparkling wines, and the potent tsipouro brandy, all crafted using locally sourced grapes. This winery is located approximately 10 miles northwest of town, just outside the charming hillside village of Zitsa.
## The Secluded Splendor of Moni Kipinas
When conversations turn to the topic of Greek clifftop monasteries, Meteora often takes center stage as the most recognizable and celebrated example. However, the Moni Kipinas monastery, nestled in the rugged Tzoumerka mountains approximately 15 miles southeast of Ioannina, offers an equally dramatic and captivating location. Clinging precariously to the rock face like a bees’ nest, this simple yet striking stone-and-wood monastery was originally built in 1212 CE, a testament to the enduring power of faith and human ingenuity. It features a remarkable wooden drawbridge that served to protect the ascetic monks from potential raids during the tumultuous Ottoman period, and its chapel is adorned with a series of beautifully preserved frescoes that depict religious scenes and figures. The monastery is easily accessed via a cobbled path that leads directly from the parking lot (where you can pick up the key to the monastery at a small kiosk), located just one mile east of the quaint hamlet of Mistras.
## The Majestic Vikos Gorge: A Natural Wonder
If the Guinness Book of Records is to be believed, and there is little reason to doubt it, this plunging gorge that dramatically cuts through the Pindos Mountains to the north of Ioannina holds the prestigious title of the world’s deepest canyon, based on its unique width-to-depth ratio. Carved over countless millennia by the relentless force of the Voidomatis River, this seven-mile gorge is located on the southern slopes of the imposing Mount Tymfi. At its deepest point, the gorge descends a staggering half a mile, yet at no point does it exceed a width of more than 400 yards, creating a truly awe-inspiring spectacle. The gorge serves as the centerpiece of the Vikos-Aoös National Park, a meticulously preserved natural haven dedicated to the protection of endangered species, including the agile chamois mountain goat, the elusive European wildcat, the powerful brown bear, and the graceful lynx. Near its southern end, the Oxya Viewpoint (situated on the west rim) and the Beloi Viewpoint (located on the east rim) offer breathtaking panoramic views of the gorge and the surrounding landscape, with the latter generally considered to be the more impressive of the two. You can conveniently drive to the Oxya Viewpoint; however, reaching the Beloi lookout requires a scenic one-mile hike from the end of the road above the charming hamlet of Vradeto.
A rocky and, at times, indistinct trail follows the tree-shaded waterway beneath the gorge, connecting the clifftop village of Monodendri, at its southern end, to the hamlet of Vikos, in the north. Allow at least four hours for this challenging but rewarding trek, which involves a steep descent from Monodendri and an equally steep switchback ascent to Vikos, where you will undoubtedly welcome a hearty meal (perhaps a traditional wild boar stew) and a refreshing beer at a local taverna.
The hike is essentially divided into three distinct sections, with the Monodendri-Vikos route forming the core of the experience. From Vikos, you have the option to hike uphill to three charming mountain hamlets, collectively known as the “Papingo villages.” Papingo (the uppermost village) is particularly renowned for its picturesque rock pools, nestled amidst striated limestone cliffs, creating a unique and visually stunning landscape. South of Monodendri, the Vikos Gorge gradually broadens. You can choose to follow a trail (allowing approximately four hours for the hike), or opt to drive, to the delightful village of Kipi, famous for its collection of half-dozen arched stone bridges (more details on this below in the section dedicated to Zagori Villages & Stone Bridges). You can also survey the gorge from the abandoned Moni Agia Paraskevi monastery, perched at the end of a narrow cobbled road that leads half a mile uphill east from Monodendri, offering a unique vantage point.
If you are planning to hike the gorge, it is essential to wear sturdy hiking shoes and to bring an adequate supply of bottled water (the only reliable water source is at Klima Spring, located approximately halfway along the gorge). Before setting out, be sure to check the weather forecast to avoid any potential rainfall, and always inform your guesthouse of your planned route and your anticipated return time. Also, given that public transport in the region is often unreliable, it is highly recommended to arrange for your guesthouse to organize a local to pick you up at the end of your hike.
## Exploring the Zagori Villages & Admiring the Stone Bridges
Scattered throughout one of the least densely populated regions of Greece are the 40-plus settlements collectively known as the Zagori villages. Officially declared a national historical monument, these humble villages, characterized by their charming stone cottages with mossy slate roofs, were once meticulously connected by a network of kalderimi (cobbled footpaths), switchback staircases, and elegant stone bridges that arched gracefully over the Voidomatis River and its tributaries. Some of the homes feature intricately carved wooden ceilings, while others boast beautifully preserved frescoes, offering glimpses into the rich artistic and cultural heritage of the region. Hiking between these villages is widely considered to be one of the most rewarding and unforgettable excursions in Greece.
The 18th-century bridges, locally known as gefiri, are particularly concentrated around the village of Kipi, situated approximately three miles southeast of Monodendri (the distance is slightly longer if you account for the winding nature of the road that snakes down into the valley). The gefiri are traditionally named after the local families who generously financed their construction, a testament to the strong community spirit that has long characterized the region. The single-arch Gefiri Kokkori leaps elegantly over the river beneath a towering rock column, located approximately 1.5 miles west of Kipi, while the double-arch Gefiri Milos is situated just 400 yards south of Kipi. The most spectacular of all is undoubtedly Gefiri Plakida, a magnificent triple-arched bridge located 600 yards downstream (southwest) of Kipi. There are many more bridges scattered throughout the area, each with its own unique charm and historical significance.
For those seeking a strenuous hike with truly breathtaking views, be sure to tackle the famous Vradeto staircase—a remarkable 17th-century stone switchback staircase that clings dramatically to a cliff-face, connecting the charming hamlets of Vradeto and Kapesovo.
## The Majestic Pindos Mountains: A Year-Round Destination
During the winter months, the Pindos Mountains are transformed into a breathtaking winter wonderland, blanketed in a thick layer of pristine snow. Within the remote Northern Pindos National Park, you will find the second highest mountain in Greece: the imposing Mount Smolikas, which reaches a towering height of 8,652 feet. To the south, you can admire the rugged peaks of the Tymfi massif, creating a dramatic and visually stunning panorama. While the Pindos Mountains are a superb hiking destination during the summer months, December through April is undeniably the best time to hit the slopes and enjoy the region’s excellent skiing and snowboarding opportunities. The most important of a handful of small ski resorts in the area is the state-owned Vasilitsa, which boasts seven ski lifts, approximately 13 miles of meticulously groomed downhill runs, and endless miles of backcountry trails, catering to both novice and experienced skiers.
Further south, the charming town of Metsovo, located approximately 25 miles east of Ioannina, is another popular center for skiing and snowboarding enthusiasts. Metsovo features three small ski areas that also serve as excellent centers for alpine hiking during the summer months, when the snows melt and the landscape is transformed into a verdant paradise.
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