Cartagena is one of South America’s most enchanting colonial cities, and one its best places to eat, with seafood featuring prominently on many menus. The culinary scene has blossomed here in the last decade, with plenty of options that cater to all palates and budgets, from no-frills food carts to some of the most lauded restaurants in the country. Use this guide to find your way to the best eateries this city can offer.
## A Culinary Journey Through Cartagena: A Feast for Every Palate
Cartagena, a vibrant and captivating city, offers an experience for every traveler, and that includes a diverse and tantalizing culinary landscape. From humble street stalls brimming with local flavors to elegant fine dining establishments, Cartagena presents a restaurant for every taste and inclination. While the city extends far beyond its historical heart, the essential neighborhoods for culinary exploration remain El Centro, the original walled city, and its charming extensions, San Diego and Getsemaní. These areas pulse with gastronomic energy, offering a spectrum of dining options to satisfy any craving. Venture out and discover the hidden gems and well-known delights that await.
Throughout Cartagena, you’ll encounter a plethora of cheap and cheerful street stalls, each offering a unique taste of local cuisine. Some of the most enticing options can be found in Getsemaní’s lively Plaza de la Trinidad and La Matuna, a bustling area nestled between San Diego and Getsemaní. Here, the aromas of sizzling snacks and the lively chatter of locals create an authentic and unforgettable experience.
Ceviche, a quintessential South American dish of seafood marinated in citrus juices, is ubiquitous in Cartagena. Every corner seems to boast its own version of this refreshing delicacy. Accompanying the ceviche are a tempting array of fried treats, including arepas de huevo, savory fried corn cakes stuffed with a perfectly cooked egg, as well as empanadas, crispy pockets filled with savory meats or vegetables, and buñuelos, delectable deep-fried maize and cheese balls. These satisfying snacks are perfect for a quick and delicious bite as you explore the city.
For those seeking a more refined dining experience, Cartagena offers a wealth of exceptional restaurants. Making advance reservations is highly recommended, especially if you plan to dine at popular fine dining establishments. Securing a table in advance is particularly important during weekends and peak tourist seasons, such as over Easter, Christmas, and generally from December to mid-January. Plan ahead to avoid disappointment and ensure a memorable culinary adventure.
## El Santisimo: Where Caribbean Flavors Meet French Flair
Prepare for a unique and innovative dining experience at El Santísimo, Federico Vega’s contemporary restaurant where Caribbean Colombian flavors intertwine with refined French techniques. This establishment is a haven for foodies who appreciate the artistry of fusion cuisine and a dining experience infused with a creative theme.
The restaurant’s name, “the most holy,” inspires a playful, tongue-in-cheek religious theme that permeates the décor and the names of the dishes. The “Pañuelos de la Novicia,” or the “Nun’s Handkerchief,” presents a delectable combination of camembert cheese with white wine and gooseberry sauce, while the desserts are cleverly themed around the seven deadly sins. However, the restaurant is not merely relying on a gimmick. There’s nothing kitsch about the expertly prepared food. Indulge in the tenderloin served atop a creamy mushroom risotto, or savor the fish marinated in coconut milk and coriander. The Thai-style sautéed rice, accompanied by shellfish and shrimp, is another culinary masterpiece. Complementing the exquisite cuisine is a fabulously curated wine cellar. Reservations are strongly recommended to ensure your place at this culinary sanctuary.
* **Where:** Calle del Torno No. 39-62
## Carmen: A Culinary Masterpiece
For a truly unforgettable and luxurious dining experience in Cartagena, look no further than Carmen. Here, you will discover high-quality contemporary Colombian cuisine infused with subtle Asian touches. The dishes feature freshly caught fish artfully blended with olive and mango sauces, as well as curries crafted with local yams and bananas.
Carmen is helmed by the lauded culinary team of Rob Pevitts and Carmen Ángel, who have created a truly exceptional dining destination. The tasting menu, offering either five or seven courses, is a splurge, but well worth experiencing. Reservations are highly recommended for Friday and Saturday nights, as the restaurant is particularly popular during these times. However, a weekday lunchtime visit offers a good chance of securing a table without a reservation.
* **Where:** Calle del Santísimo (C 38) No. 8–19, Centro
## Marea by Rausch: A Gourmet Escape
Tucked away within Cartagena’s modern conference center, Marea by Rausch provides gourmands with an ideal escape from the bustling crowds. Helmed by culinary celebrities Jorge and Mark Rausch, this restaurant specializes in contemporary Colombian seafood. From artfully presented ceviche to delicately fried fish, the menu is a celebration of the ocean’s bounty.
Guests can order a la carte, selecting dishes individually. However, for the most value for your money, consider opting for the tasting menu, available for both lunch and dinner. Dine inside the plush contemporary dining room, which offers a blissfully air-conditioned environment. Alternatively, enjoy your meal on the outdoor terrace, where you can savor wonderful views of the old town from both vantage points.
* **Where:** Centro de Convenciones, Getsemaní
## La Cocina de Pepina: Authentic Colombian Flavors
La Cocina de Pepina offers an old-school Colombian dining experience, perfect for those seeking to experience tasty, local dishes at reasonable prices. Arrive at opening time in the evening (7 pm) to secure a table, as this intimate restaurant, resembling someone’s living room, has only six tables. Reservations are possible, making it advisable to book in advance.
The traditional Colombian criollo-style dishes served here are a testament to the legacy of the late María Josefina “Pepina” Yance, who founded the restaurant and authored a popular cookbook in 2010. Be sure to try her sublime “mote de queso,” a cheese and ham stew, the flavorful ceviche “si, si, si”, spicy prawn stew, or her celebrated stuffed peppers. Each dish embodies the authentic flavors of Colombian cuisine.
* **Where**: Callejón Vargas No. 9A–06, Getsemaní
## La Cevichería: A Ceviche Haven
Cartagena is justly renowned for its ceviche, and La Cevichería remains one of the best places to sample this seafood specialty. Typically, the ceviche features a refreshing blend of fresh shrimp, octopus, and fish marinated in a medley of mango, coconut, and lime juices. Chef Jorge Escandon’s tiny restaurant received a significant boost in popularity after being featured on Anthony Bourdain’s TV show in 2008.
While the secret of La Cevichería is definitely out, the quality remains top-notch. To avoid the crowds, arrive promptly at 1 pm when it opens for lunch. There are no reservations, so early arrival is essential. If the weather permits, opt to sit outside and enjoy the vibrant atmosphere. For a more substantial meal, the paella, simmered in coconut milk, is an excellent choice.
* **Where:** Calle Stuart No. 7–14, San Diego
## Saint Roque Cafe – Restaurant: A Spicy Indonesian Escape
Lovers of spicy food, and anyone seeking a break from typical Colombian menus, should explore the Indonesian dishes on offer at Saint Roque Cafe – Restaurant. It is open for dinner only, and reservations are highly recommended. Settle in at an outside table and enjoy an aperitif before ordering, soaking in the atmosphere of one of Cartagena’s most colorful neighborhoods.
The menu features classic Indonesian dishes, such as gado gado, an Indonesian salad of vegetables, hard-boiled eggs, and fried tofu served with a peanut sauce. These dishes are skillfully recreated using fresh, local ingredients. A portion of the restaurant’s profits goes to a local children’s charity, La Vecina, which was established by the restaurant’s two Dutch owners.
* **Where:** Calle Espiritu Santo No. 29-214, Getsemaní
## Pastelería Mila: A Sweet Tooth’s Paradise
Chef Mila Vargas is another Colombian celebrity chef who has been drawn to Cartagena. Her Pastelería Mila is a must-visit destination for anyone with a sweet tooth. While you can enjoy breakfast plates, gourmet sandwiches, and delicious quiche here, it is the cakes and pastries that truly steal the show. Indulge in decadent brownies, zesty lemon pies, Key lime cheesecakes, and crispy churros dipped in rich hot chocolate.
* **Where:** Calle de la Iglesia 35–76, El Centro
## Demente: Craft Beers and Historic Charm
This fashionable bar is a haven for those who appreciate craft beers and dimly-lit, historic premises. Demente has been carved out of a once-crumbling eighteenth-century house. The bar retains its original character, featuring exposed brick, rocking chairs, bench-like tables, and minimalist décor. You can easily create a full meal from their tapas menu, which includes flavorful options such as fried sweet chili peppers and oxtail sliders. Arrive in the early evening to secure a table without any difficulty.
* **Where:** Plaza de la Trinidad No. 10–19, Getsemaní
## La Vitrola: Cuban Rhythms and Culinary Delights
La Vitrola, a contemporary Cuban restaurant, is best experienced for dinner. The blend of live Cuban son music, tasty mojitos, and a decent (but pricey) menu can still make for a great night, despite the restaurant’s popularity. La Vitrola (“the jukebox”) has been one of the city’s most popular restaurants for a while, especially with Colombian celebrities. Advance reservations are highly recommended, and arriving after 8 pm will enhance the experience.
It is much easier to get in for lunch, but you will miss out on the lively atmosphere. The swirling ceiling fans, colonial Spanish décor, and wooden shutters evoke the charm of old Havana at any time of day. Seafood takes center stage on the menu, with signature dishes including fresh red snapper in chili sauce (“diablo”) and grouper served in a variety of ways. The Indian marsala version is a spicy delight, if not especially Cuban. Note that men wearing shorts will not be admitted, and flip-flops are not permitted.
* **Where:** Calle Baloco No. 2–01, Centro
## Restaurant Vera: An Exclusive Italian Escape
For a more exclusive dining experience, head to the classy Vera restaurant, located inside the plush Tcherassi Hotel. Here, Chef Daniel Castano crafts high-quality Italian dishes. Pastas are enhanced with truffles and scallops. The restaurant’s all-white color scheme complements the lovely open courtyard, which features an idyllic pool backed by a lush green wall. Local movers and shakers often book the place up on big occasions. However, coming for lunch on a weekday will grant you a more peaceful experience, and there’s no need to dress up.
* **Where:** Calle del Curato No. 38-99, Centro
## Street Snacks: A Culinary Adventure
Adventurous eaters should embrace the opportunity to sample Cartagena’s street snacks. One of the best street snack carts is Fritos de Trinidad, located at Getsemaní’s delightful Plaza de la Trinidad. Locals line up for the cheap but delicious empanadas and arepas, all costing less than a dollar. The neighborhood also has carts selling fresh fruit, juices, and other tasty treats. Find a space on the plaza or church steps and savor these delights as you soak up the scene: street performers, artists, families enjoying the cooler air, and kids playing soccer.
* **Where:** Plaza de la Trinidad, Getsemaní
This culinary journey through Cartagena promises a feast for every palate, from the refined flavors of contemporary cuisine to the authentic tastes of local street snacks. Whether you’re seeking a luxurious dining experience or a casual bite, Cartagena offers a gastronomic adventure that will leave you with unforgettable memories.
B-395