From its famous canals to festive Carnivale, Venice is a constant in pop culture imaginings of Italy. Long dismissed as over-touristed, this city still has some tricks up its sleeve: think historic restaurants with jaw-dropping wine lists, small islands full of master craftsmen, and lesser-known neighborhoods with nary a traveler in sight. Learn how to do Venice right with this guide.
## Discover the Enchanting City of Venice
Nothing in the world truly resembles Venice. It might seem familiar from countless appearances in movies, television documentaries, and travelogues, and it’s often thronged with tourists – at times, the number of visitors can significantly outweigh the local population – but this majestic, breathtaking floating city remains an unparalleled spectacle. Its shimmering domes, magnificent Renaissance palaces, and ancient medieval bell towers appear to rise miraculously straight from the embrace of the Adriatic Sea, creating a scene of unparalleled beauty and wonder.
The spirit and traditions of Venice are vibrantly maintained through the month-long Carnevale, a celebration of revelry and artistry that typically takes place in February or March. The city also serves as a showcase for modern Italian culture and international artistry, most notably during the Venice International Film Festival, which occurs in late August and early September, and at the prestigious Biennale d’Arte, a renowned art exhibition held from May to November every odd-numbered year. These events contribute to the unique and vibrant atmosphere that permeates Venice throughout the year.
## Planning Your Venetian Adventure
### Crafting the Perfect Venice Itinerary
When time is limited, the majority of travelers typically dedicate two to three days to wandering through the main city of Venice, absorbing its atmosphere and iconic landmarks. However, a full week allows for a more in-depth exploration, including venturing to the outer islands that offer a different perspective on the Venetian lagoon and its history.
If your visit to Venice is restricted to just two or three days, prioritizing the must-see highlights is crucial. A recommended starting point is a ride on the number 1 *vaporetto* – Venice’s efficient water bus or ferry system – along the iconic Grand Canal. This leisurely journey provides a breathtaking introduction to the city’s architectural splendor and allows you to witness the palatial facades that line the waterway. Following your canal cruise, a visit to St Mark’s Square is essential. Here, you can explore the magnificent Basilica di San Marco, an opulent masterpiece of Byzantine architecture, and the Doge’s Palace, a historical symbol of Venetian power and artistry.
On the second day, immerse yourself in the art world by touring the Accademia, which houses an impressive collection of Venetian paintings. Afterward, venture into one of the less crowded *siesteri* – the districts or neighborhoods of Venice – to discover hidden gems and experience the authentic local atmosphere. These quieter areas offer a welcome respite from the bustling tourist crowds and provide a glimpse into the everyday life of Venetians.
Your third day can begin with a visit to the bustling fish market, a sensory explosion of sights, sounds, and smells that offers a true taste of Venetian life. From there, cross the iconic Rialto Bridge, a landmark in itself, and explore the upscale shops and boutiques at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Ascend to the rooftop of this historic building for panoramic views that capture the breathtaking beauty of Venice. Within a short stroll from this vantage point, you can find the grand Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo, a magnificent church filled with artistic treasures, the captivating artwork housed within Ca’ d’Oro, a stunning palace on the Grand Canal, and the intriguing high-tech exhibits at the Casanova Museum, which delves into the life and legend of the infamous Venetian libertine.
With a week or more at your disposal, you can truly delve beneath the surface and uncover the hidden depths of Venice. Consider taking a boat trip to the enchanting island of Torcello, a serene escape with ancient roots, or visiting the lace-making hub of Burano, famous for its colorful houses and intricate lacework. A visit to Murano is also a must, where you can witness the artistry of glassblowing in its renowned workshops.
Back on the main islands, you’ll have ample time to explore the city’s grand palazzos, such as Ca’ Rezzonico, a beloved residence of the poet Robert Browning. You can also discover smaller, more intimate gems like the Museo Ebraico (Jewish museum), which offers insights into the rich history of the Jewish community in Venice, and explore churches overflowing with artistic masterpieces, such as Veronese’s San Sebastiano. Or simply wander aimlessly through the outer districts, allowing yourself to get lost in the romantic streets of San Pietro di Castello or Giudecca, areas that are often overlooked by the typical tourist crowds.
### The Best Time to Experience Venice
Venice welcomes visitors throughout the year, with a “high season” that commences around Easter and continues, unabated, until November. The months of May, June, and September are generally considered the most desirable in terms of weather conditions, but consequently, they tend to be the most crowded periods. July and August can be intensely hot and particularly busy, and hotel rates tend to be elevated throughout the spring and summer months.
The phenomenon of significant acqua alta, or flooding, can occur as early as late September or October, but it typically peaks between November and March. It’s important to note that the floodwaters usually recede within a few hours, and the city’s daily life continues largely unaffected. The weather from December to March is generally cool, with occasional rain, but there are also plenty of sunny days interspersed throughout this period. The crowds, and consequently, the hotel rates, tend to be at their lowest either side of the Carnevale festivities.
### Navigating Your Way to and Around Venice
Venice enjoys excellent connectivity with numerous cities worldwide via air travel. Marco Polo Airport serves as a key hub for low-cost airlines such as Volotea and easyJet. It’s worth noting that many Ryanair flights are routed through nearby Treviso Airport, which is approximately a one-hour bus ride from Venice. Several airlines offer non-stop flights from North America, but these are typically seasonal, operating during the summer months. Delta offers flights from Atlanta and New York-JFK; United operates flights from Newark; and American offers flights from Chicago and Philadelphia.
Trains arriving from Rome, Milan, Florence, and various destinations across Europe terminate at Venezia Santa Lucia station, conveniently located directly on the Grand Canal. For those arriving by car, it’s essential to note that once you cross the causeway connecting Venice to the mainland, you must park your vehicle in the designated garages around Piazzale Roma or on the adjacent island of Tronchetto. Buses also typically drop off passengers in these areas. The only means of navigating Venice itself are by boat or on foot. The city offers the option of expensive water taxis, as well as the more affordable and comprehensive vaporetto system.
### Understanding Venice Passes
The Museum Pass grants access to all city-run museums over a six-month duration, and it also provides the valuable benefit of bypassing ticket lines, saving you precious time. The Chorus Pass offers complimentary admission to virtually every major church in Venice, allowing you to fully appreciate the city’s religious art and architecture. Venezia Unica is a comprehensive card that combines the benefits of the museum and church passes with transport options, discounts, and even internet access, all through a customizable online system. The Rolling Venice card caters specifically to visitors between the ages of 6 and 29, providing discounts at museums, shops, language courses, hotels, and bars. ACTV travel cards are also available, offering unlimited boat rides for specified periods (24hr, 48hr, and 72hr).
## Unveiling the Highlights and Activities of Venice
### Piazza San Marco (St Mark’s Square)
Piazza San Marco, the historical and spiritual heart of Venice, stands as one of Europe’s most iconic public spaces. Immerse yourself in the square’s vibrant atmosphere at its historic cafes. Caffè Florian, with its roots stretching back to 1720, exudes timeless elegance, while Caffè Lavena held a special place in the heart of composer Richard Wagner during the 19th century.
Dominating the entire piazza, the Basilica di San Marco (St. Mark’s Cathedral) is a breathtakingly opulent structure, adorned with glittering gold, intricate mosaics, and stunning frescoes. Ascend the basilica’s 318-foot bell tower, the Campanile di San Marco, for mesmerizing panoramic views of the city. Nearby, the grand Palazzo Ducale, formerly the residence of Venice’s rulers, now houses a remarkable collection of world-class art, including Veronese’s masterpiece, “Rape of Europa”. The infamous Bridge of Sighs connects the palace to the old prisons, its name popularized by Lord Byron.
### The Majestic Grand Canal
A leisurely journey on the number 1 vaporetto along the Grand Canal (ideally securing an outdoor seat at the bow) offers the most immersive way to appreciate the city’s extravagant *palazzos* up close. The gracefully arched Rialto Bridge links San Marco with the Mercato Rialto, Venice’s bustling principal open-air market. On the south side of the bridge stands the medieval T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, transformed in 2016 by Rem Koolhaas into a luxurious department store. Its Rooftop Terrace provides the best overall perspective of Venice.
### Exploring Castello
To the east of Piazza San Marco lies Castello, featuring the elegant Riva degli Schiavoni waterside esplanade, lined with prestigious five-star hotels such as the Danieli. Venture further east towards the Arsenale, or inland, and the crowds begin to thin out. Here you will discover the Basilica SS. Giovanni e Paolo (commonly known as “Zanipolo”), a monumental Gothic church that houses the tombs of the doges and showcases brilliant works by Bellini and Veronese.
### Delving into Dorsoduro
The Accademia houses a magnificent collection of European art, particularly Venetian paintings spanning from the 14th to the 18th centuries, featuring the works of masters like Tintoretto, Tiepolo, Titian, and Veronese. In contrast, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection presents primarily American and European art from the 20th century, displayed within Guggenheim’s former home, the 18th-century Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, situated directly on the Grand Canal.
### Discovering San Polo
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (“i Frari”) is the largest church in Venice after San Marco, and it houses two iconic masterpieces by Titian. Nearby, the Scuola Grande di San Rocco is adorned with over 50 works by Tintoretto, including “Flight into Egypt”, widely considered one of his greatest achievements.
### Roaming Cannaregio
Cannaregio extends north and east from the train station, providing a rewarding and significantly less crowded area to explore. Along a quiet canal, the Casanova Museum & Experience pays tribute to Giacomo Casanova, Venice’s notorious libertine. The Ca’ d’Oro, the “golden house,” overlooking the Grand Canal, is an exceptional art gallery displaying mostly early Renaissance Italian and Flemish paintings, including a “St. Sebastian” by Andrea Mantegna. To gain insight into the long and significant history of the Jewish community in Venice, visit the Museo Ebraico (Jewish Museum), which also offers guided tours of the area’s five historic synagogues.
### Venturing to the Outer Islands
A short boat ride from central Venice leads to the island of Murano, renowned for its exquisite glasswork. The Museo del Vetro (Museum of Glass) provides valuable context, while numerous workshops offer captivating demonstrations of glassblowing techniques. Lace is the defining characteristic of the tiny island of Burano, celebrated at the Museo del Merletto (Museum of Lace Making). The bucolic island of Torcello offers a tranquil escape, home to the grand Basilica di Santa Maria dell’Assunta, justly famed for its remarkable 11th- to 12th-century Byzantine mosaics.
### Experiencing Venice by Gondola
While undeniably expensive and undeniably touristy, taking a trip on a gondola truly can be as romantic as it appears. Prices are fixed, but before embarking on your journey, it’s prudent to discuss the route with the gondolier (opting for the quieter back canals is generally preferable to the Grand Canal). Resist the temptation to request a song from the gondolier. Gondola stations can be found throughout the city, including at Piazzale Roma, the train station, the Rialto Bridge, and Piazza San Marco. For a quick and affordable alternative, consider taking a *traghetto* across the Grand Canal.
## Where to Find Your Venetian Home
Booking accommodation in Venice well in advance is crucial, even during the off-season. Hotels in Venice tend to be more expensive than elsewhere in Italy, but rates fluctuate significantly throughout the year, making advance research essential.
If you are seeking luxury, Venice will not disappoint. The city’s grand dames include the legendary Belmond Hotel Cipriani, established in 1958 by Giuseppe Cipriani, the historic 16th-century Gritti Palace, and the Hotel Danieli, another former palace that has been a sumptuous hotel since 1822. Budget-conscious and independent travelers may find Airbnb, VRBO.com, and Homeaway.com to be more suitable options, or they could consider staying at the generally more affordable hotels across the causeway in Mestre (just 10 minutes away by frequent train). Decent deals in Venice proper can be found at Locanda Fiorita, nestled on a charming *campiello*, the cozy B&B San Marco, and Al Ponte Mocenigo, an 18th-century gem located steps from the Grand Canal.
## Indulge in Venetian Culinary Delights
While Venice may have a somewhat mixed culinary reputation compared to other regions of Italy, there are numerous excellent restaurants to discover. At the higher end, Bistrot de Venise provides a classic Venetian dining experience, specializing in rare wines and historical recipes, while Alle Corone and Alle Testiere are excellent choices for splurging on fresh Adriatic seafood. Dining at Gritti Terrace on the Grand Canal remains one of Venice’s most magical experiences, despite the higher prices.
Venice may not be famous for its pizza, but the delicious pies at Antico Forno are considered the best in the city. To save money, explore the neighborhood bars known as *bàcari*, where you can sample *tramezzini* (small sandwiches) and *cicchetti* (tapas-like snacks) accompanied by wine or prosecco. Do Mori has been a Venetian institution since 1462, while La Bottiglia is a more modern *bàcari* that features wonderful cheese and meat boards. The tiny Bacareto Da Lele offers incredibly cheap drinks and snacks, and Pasticceria Tonolo is a bakery with a cult following since the 1880s, renowned for its delectable sweet treats.
### Venice by Night
Venice is not typically considered a party destination, but nothing quite compares to enjoying an Aperol spritz on one of its beautiful *campos* on a summer evening. The popular local bar Al Prosecco specializes in Veneto prosecco, while the upscale Bar Dandolo serves everything from deluxe cappuccinos to expertly crafted martinis. You can also savor rooftop drinks at its sister bar, Bar Terrazza Danieli.
The historic Caffè dei Frari transforms into Il Mercante Cocktail Bar in the evenings, while live rock and folk bands perform amidst the graffiti-covered walls of Osteria all’Alba. Il Santo Bevitore, a tiny bar overlooking a canal, offers a selection of good (Italian!) craft beers. For classical music concerts, visit Santa Maria della Pietà, the “Vivaldi Church”, and the opera season at Teatro La Fenice runs from late November through June.
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