Day 2: Hike to Roncesvalles, Visit the Collegiate Church of Roncesvalles

Set out on your climb to Roncesvalles, traversing the challenging yet rewarding 15.5 miles (25 km) through the Pyrenees, marking your transition into Spain’s Navarre region. Many pilgrims claim today’s trek as the most difficult, taking as long as nine hours, so bring plenty of water and snacks and take breaks along the way. As you ascend, you’ll have sweeping mountain views. Upon reaching Roncesvalles, congratulate yourself on a job well done and freshen up before spending an hour at the Collegiate Church, a Gothic-style architectural marvel.

Dating back to the 12th century, this sacred site has long been a refuge for pilgrims crossing the Pyrenees. Delve into its historical significance as a shelter and hospital for weary travelers. Consider participating in the pilgrim’s mass, a poignant ceremony offering blessings for your onward journey. The spiritual resonance and centuries-old traditions enrich the pilgrim experience, lending a profound sense of continuity to your steps on the path of the Way of St. James. 

Day 3: Hike to Zubiri, Cross the Rabies Bridge

Embark on a serene hike from Roncesvalles to Zubiri, a tiny town with a welcoming spirit. Pilgrims often find it an ideal resting point due to its amenities, such as accommodations, cafés, and shops. You’ll cover approximately 13 miles (21 km) in about six hours as you traverse peaceful, wooded trails, passing by idyllic villages along the way. For those seeking added exploration, consider a detour to the Church of Santa Maria de Eunate, a beautifully preserved 12th-century Catholic church showcasing Romanesque architecture. 

As you continue, encounter the Rabies Bridge, a testament to history and local legend. Dating back to the 12th century, this Romanesque marvel spans the River Arga. Folklore intertwines with the bridge’s construction, as discovering Saint Quiteria’s remains led to a strange tradition. Townspeople ceremoniously led animals around the central pillar, believing this would protect against rabies, lending the bridge its distinctive name. Reflect on the bridge’s historical significance and the cultural tales etched into its stones. 

Day 4: Hike to Pamplona, Explore the City

Day 5: Hike to Puente la Reina, Admire the Puente la Reina Bridge

Today’s 15-mile (24 km) journey to Puente la Reina leads you through urban zones and rustic terrains over the course of six hours. Depart Pamplona and pass through Cizur Menor, a town with ancient stone houses and a historic church. Ascend the mountain pass of Alto del Perdón, where you’ll have panoramic views. At the summit, snap a few photos with the famed sculpture symbolizing pilgrims facing the challenges of their Camino journey. Descend from the pass to Uterga to explore the Romanesque Church of San Andrés.

Proceed to Obanos, a village with cobblestone streets and medieval charm. Notice the Church of San Juan Bautista and its striking octagonal tower. Upon arriving at Puente la Reina, the highlight awaits at the Queen’s Bridge, an ancient 12th-century Romanesque marvel crossing the Arga River, connecting the town to the Camino de Santiago route. The bridge, named after Queen Doña Mayor, believed to have supported its construction, is a cherished landmark for pilgrims and visitors. Settle in before venturing to a local restaurant and trying the special pilgrim’s menu for dinner. 

Day 6: Hike to Estella, Explore the Old Town

Walk for six hours and 13 miles (21 km) to Estella through Navarre’s picturesque wine country. As you traverse vineyard-laden landscapes, you can gain insights into local wine production. Here, some pilgrims detour to see The Monastery of Santa María de Iranzu, its elegant arches, delicate columns, and intricate carvings making for a beautiful and peaceful space for contemplation. Continue to Estella and pass charming villages like Villatuerta before stopping to relish a coffee or a meal at a local spot.

Upon nearing Estella, you’ll encounter the intriguing octagonal Chapel of Santa María de Eunate, steeped in enigmatic history. In Estella, allow an hour to explore the old town, beginning with the Church of San Pedro de la Rúa, renowned for its exquisitely adorned cloister. Meander along the historic Calle de Curtidores (Tanners’ Street), referring to the artisans and craftspeople who worked along this avenue. In the past, this street was connected to the leatherworking industry and housed numerous tanneries, where animal hides were treated and transformed into leather goods. 

Day 7: Hike to Los Arcos via the Irache Wine Fountain, Explore

The route to Los Arcos spans 13 miles (21 km) of scenic landscapes, taking about six hours. Departing Estella, you’ll encounter the Iratxe Forge blacksmith shop, where you can glimpse into traditional blacksmithing practices, witness a demonstration, and shop for handmade metal wares. Next, approach the town of Ayegui, home to the Monasterio de Irache. The monastery here hosts the Fuente del Vino (wine fountain), where pilgrims traditionally sample local wine—an iconic stop and highlight of the Camino. If you don’t have a cup, your scallop shell works as a drinking vessel, just like in medieval times.

Peek into the museum to gain insights into the winemaking process and browse historical winemaking tools and equipment displays. Continue to Villamayor de Monjardín, with hilltop views and a serene ambience perfect for a brief respite. Arrive in Los Arcos and wander through the labyrinthine streets, pause at the Church of Santa María renowned for its elaborate Gothic portal, and admire the stately Palacio de los Condes de Azpeitia, a noble residence with impressive architecture, before dinner in its historic Plaza Mayor and celebrating the completion of one week on the Camino. 

Day 8: Hike to Logroño, Discover Camino Sites

On this leg of the journey, you’ll trek about eight hours and 17 miles (28 km) to Logroño, the capital of La Rioja, a region known for its wine production, experiencing countryside landscapes and fields of sunflowers. Starting off, you’ll arrive in Viana, situated on a hilltop. Walk its historic streets and visit the Church of Santa María while soaking in the picturesque views. Leaving Viana, the route continues through vineyards and olive groves before arriving in the town of Logroño, the final stretch of the route taking you along the banks of the Ebro River.

The architectural grandeur of Logroño’s churches awaits. Explore the Co-Cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda and, for a step back into medieval times, the 12th-century Church of San Bartolomé. Spend two hours sampling tapas and typical dishes on the bustling Calle del Laurel, such as Riojan potatoes and vegetable stew. Discover the city’s 16th-century defense walls and the 18th-century palace that houses the Museum of La Rioja. In Santiago Square, play the Game of the Goose, with Jacobean motifs, and see The Pilgrim Fountain, commemorating the Camino’s history. 

Day 10: Hike to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Explore the Cathedral

As you leave the medieval town of Nájera, prepare for a day-long trek spanning approximately 13 miles (21 km) and six hours through rural landscapes with vineyards, small villages, and serene countryside. The terrain varies from gentle paths to moderately hilly sections. Shortly after departing, you’ll come across the peaceful villages of Azofra and Cirueña. Arrive in Santo Domingo de la Calzada and discover its UNESCO-designated cathedral renowned for a hen coop commemorating a miraculous event central to the town’s lore: the legend of the rooster and hen.

The town emerged from the aspirations of Santo Domingo, a crucial figure in the pilgrimage’s history. Initially designed to aid pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela, the town provided refuge amid the La Hojuela forest and river Oja. Venture to the old Pilgrims’ Hospital, now a Parador de Turismo (hotel in a historically or culturally significant building). Admire emblematic houses along Calle Mayor, City Hall, and the San Francisco convent before stopping by Casa del Santo (Saint’s House), an information center for pilgrims, offering valuable guidance for the road ahead. 

Day 11: Hike to Belorado, Explore the Historic Center

Today, you’ll walk 13.5 miles (22 km) to Belorado, a journey of about six hours through diverse landscapes of rolling hills, countryside, and tiny villages like Grañon, Redecilla del Camino, and Castildelgado, offering glimpses into rural Spanish life.

After arriving in Belorado, explore the historic center, including the Church of Santa María with its Romanesque portal and the nearby Hermitage of Vera Cruz, a symbol of the local faith and traditions of Belorado and a place where you can stop for quiet reflection. After settling into your hotel, discover the local Spanish cuisine by sampling caldereta (meat stew) and morcilla (blood sausage). 

Day 13: Hike to Burgos, Discover Burgos Cathedral

Today’s seven-hour journey to Burgos covers 17 miles (27 km) over moderately challenging terrain. Departing San Juan de Ortega, you’ll traverse Ages, a serene village showcasing the Romanesque Church of Santa Eulalia. Continue toward the archaeological site of Atapuerca, which provides insight into ancient human history. Pass through Cardeñuela Riopico, housing the Monastery of San Félix and San Juan de Cardeña. Founded in the ninth century, it was home to the medieval Spanish mystic, St. John of the Cross. Then, arrive in Burgos in the Castille y León region.

Explore the medieval old town, including the UNESCO-listed Gothic Burgos Cathedral, which dates back to 1221. Wander through the city’s museums and landmarks like Arco de Santa María, a grand archway that dates back to the 14th century and was originally one of the main gates to the city. Enjoy the contrast of a larger city with more amenities, and take time to restock any supplies and eat any ethnic cuisine you’ve been missing. From Burgos, you’ll progress into the “Mind” section, known for being contemplative and solitary, allowing pilgrims to introspect along the vast plains of the Meseta.