Just south of Athens, in the Saronic Gulf, this group of half-a-dozen or so islands makes for an easy getaway. No two are the same, and which to visit depends on your preference. Match culture with a lively party scene on Spetses, get away from it all on tiny Agistri, and everything in between with this guide.
## Unveiling the Enchanting Saronic Islands: A Comprehensive Guide
The Argo-Saronic Islands, a cluster of rocky, and in some cases, volcanic isles, represent the closest island group to the vibrant city of Athens, making them a coveted weekend getaway for Athenians seeking respite from the urban bustle. Each island possesses a distinctive landscape and an individual ambience that sets it apart from its neighbours. **Aegina**, steeped in history, beckons with its ancient temples, whispering tales of bygone eras. **Poros**, in contrast, is a verdant paradise, its hills adorned with fragrant pine trees, creating a haven of natural beauty. Then there is the stark, almost lunar landscape of **Hydra**, famously car-free, where horses reign supreme, adding a touch of old-world charm to its narrow, winding streets. And finally, there is the affluent island of **Spetses**, the furthest from Athens, exuding an air of sophistication with its whitewashed neoclassical homes and inviting turquoise coves, each beckoning travellers to dive into their inviting waters.
The strategic proximity of the Saronic Islands to Athens makes them easily accessible for day trips. However, to truly immerse yourself in the unique character of each island, it is highly recommended that you embark on a multi-day vacation, carefully curating an itinerary that combines the best of what each destination has to offer. This allows for a more relaxed and in-depth exploration of the islands, escaping the confines of a single day and experiencing their charm at a more leisurely pace. Consider the possibility of a rejuvenating weekend break from the capital city, a chance to recharge and reconnect with the simple pleasures of island life.
## Navigating the Saronic Archipelago: Getting There and Around
The Saronic Islands are well-connected to the mainland and each other through a network of regular car and passenger ferries, as well as faster hydrofoils, ensuring convenient and efficient transportation options. The primary point of departure and arrival is the **Port of Piraeus** in Athens, a bustling hub with five distinct routes and more than 40 daily departures, offering a plethora of choices for island hopping. Several reputable ferry companies, including Anes Ferries, Hellenic Seaways, and Saronic Ferries, provide reliable service to the islands, making it effortless to combine visits to two or more destinations within a single day. This flexibility allows you to tailor your itinerary to your specific preferences and time constraints, maximizing your exploration of the Saronic Islands.
For those travelling from Piraeus to **Aegina**, regular ferries offer a comfortable journey of approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes. These ferries conveniently connect with the neighbouring isle of **Agistri**, creating a seamless travel experience for those wishing to explore both islands. A once-daily direct ferry service from Piraeus to Agistri takes around two hours, while hydrofoils offer a faster alternative, completing the journey in approximately half the time. To reach **Poros**, a once-daily ferry takes approximately three hours. Hydrofoils, departing almost hourly during the high season, provide a quicker option, and both ferry and hydrofoil services connect Poros to other islands in the archipelago. **Hydra**, however, is served exclusively by hydrofoils, with up to five daily departures to Poros, each taking approximately two hours. Similarly, **Spetses** is accessible only by hydrofoil, with a journey time of approximately three hours.
In addition to the ferry and hydrofoil network, water taxis and smaller ferries provide further connectivity, linking some of the islands to the Peloponnese mainland. **Poros** and **Spetses** also enjoy ferry connections to the **Cycladic Islands**, extending your island-hopping possibilities beyond the Saronic Gulf.
## The Ideal Time to Visit: When to Experience the Saronic Charm
The months of July through September represent the peak season for the Saronic Islands, attracting the largest influx of visitors seeking the guaranteed sunshine and warm Mediterranean climate. However, the increased popularity during these months can also lead to larger crowds and higher prices. Therefore, the shoulder seasons of late spring (May-June) and early autumn (September-October) are often considered the best times to visit the islands. During these periods, the weather remains pleasant, the crowds begin to thin, and accommodation rates tend to be more affordable. This provides a more relaxed and authentic travel experience, allowing you to fully appreciate the beauty and charm of the Saronic Islands.
Furthermore, it is advisable to plan your visit for mid-week, as the islands’ proximity to Athens makes them a popular weekend destination for Athenians seeking a quick escape from the city. Weekends often see a surge in visitor numbers, with ferries packed with Athenians arriving on Fridays. Similarly, it is recommended to avoid visiting during the Easter holiday period, as almost every Athenian family seeks to get away for this long weekend, and the Saronics are often the most accessible option, leading to crowded ferries and overflowing hotels.
## Saronic Islands in Essence: A Tapestry of Unique Identities
Despite their shared history, having been under Venetian occupation until 1718, each of the Saronic Islands boasts a unique character, setting it apart from its neighbours like distinct thumbprints. As you journey around the Peloponnese peninsula, the three most popular islands – **Poros**, **Hydra**, and **Spetses** – tend to become increasingly upscale and expensive, catering to a more discerning clientele. The following descriptions are presented in geographic order, as you progress southwards from Athens, offering a structured overview of each island’s distinctive attributes.
### Aegina: A Relaxed and Historic Local Retreat
As your ferry approaches **Aegina**, rounding the northwestern **Cape Plakakia**, you will be immediately captivated by the first glimpses of the island’s namesake town, **Aegina**. Its charming harbour is lined with a plethora of restaurants, offering a wide range of culinary delights, while the skyline is dominated by the majestic dome of the **Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas**, the patron saint of sailors, a symbol of the island’s maritime heritage. To your left, you will notice the poignant remains of the once-magnificent **Temple of Apollo**, a testament to Aegina’s rich ancient history, now reduced to a single partial column and a collection of foundation stones.
However, a more impressive archaeological site awaits on the northeast side of the island: the great 5th-century BCE **Temple of Aphaea**. Perched atop a prominent knoll, this inspiring site commands breathtaking views, inviting you to linger until sunset, basking in the golden light. The temple boasts more than twenty Doric columns, standing proudly against a backdrop of verdant olive groves, creating a scene of timeless beauty. Close to the temple lies the quaint resort town of **Agia Marina**, offering a charming base for exploring the island’s northeastern region.
While Aegina can become crowded during weekends, when it is thronged with Athenians, many of whom own second homes on the island, it retains a seductive, laidback ambiance that is best savoured during midweek or out of season, when the crowds have dispersed and the island returns to its more tranquil rhythm.
**Where to Stay on Aegina:** For breathtaking sunset and sea views, combined with a romantic classical style, **Rastoni Guest House** is an unparalleled choice. This charming establishment boasts a lovely garden at the heart of an old pistachio farm, situated just a short walk from town, offering a perfect blend of tranquility and convenience.
### Agistri: A Blissful Beach Escape on a Tiny Isle
Located just four miles west of Aegina, this sparsely populated little isle of **Agistri** is a hidden gem, boasting some fine beaches and inviting turquoise waters, making it an ideal destination for those seeking an escape from the hordes of tourists that often plague other Greek islands. The north shore is lined with a selection of hotels, restaurants, and bars, catering to visitors’ needs, while the rest of the rocky isle is predominantly covered in fragrant pine forests, creating a sense of serenity and seclusion.
**Where to Stay on Agistri:** Nestled above a rocky cove with convenient swimming platforms, **Rosy’s Little Village** is a tranquil haven, offering 17 simply furnished rooms and a restaurant that utilizes fresh produce from the hotel’s own garden, ensuring a delightful culinary experience.
### Methana: Lava Dome Hikes & Warm Ocean Swimming
**Methana**, a volcanic mass pushed up from the sea, is now a peninsula connected to the Peloponnese mainland by a thin isthmus. Its steep slopes, rugged terrain, and relative lack of sandy beaches distinguish it from the other islands in the Saronic Gulf. The landscape is dotted with over 20 lava domes, remnants of its volcanic past (the last eruption occurred in 230 BCE), providing a unique and dramatic backdrop. Hiking enthusiasts will relish the opportunity to ascend to the top of the volcano, capped by the simple **Profitis Ilias church**, rewarding their efforts with panoramic views. Allow at least three hours for this hike from the resort town of **Mathana**, following a convoluted route along narrow asphalt roads with many sharp hairpins and unmarked bifurcations. The trail to the church is denoted roadside by a small chapel on a pedestal.
A century ago, Methana was a popular spa destination, renowned for its therapeutic hot springs. Today, hot springs still seep into the harbour, south of which you can bathe in the inviting turquoise ocean waters warmed by the volcanic springs, offering a unique and revitalizing experience.
### Poros: Lively & Walkable with Activities Galore
Situated to the southeast of Methana, against the Peloponnese peninsula, **Poros** is a popular destination for yachters, package tourists, and Athenians seeking a weekend escape. With its curving harbour, backed by whitewashed houses rambling up the green hillside, the lively town of **Sferia** (Poros town) exudes the cosmopolitan air of St. Tropez. In Sferia, be sure to visit the **Archaeological Museum**, located on the south-facing waterfront **Korizy Square**, displaying relics from ancient Troezene, the **Temple of Poseidon**, and other local archaeological sites. The freestanding hilltop **clocktower** is a popular spot for sunset viewing, although a more rewarding experience can be had by taking the path to the **Church of St. Athanasios**, offering the most sensational panoramic vista of the island and its surroundings.
A thin stretch of sand extends along the shore immediately north of Sferia, leading to **Askeli**, the largest and most popular beach on the island. The major hotels are located here, all within easy walking distance of the town. A 20-minute walk east will take you to the charming little **Monastiri Beach**, nestled at the base of a forested hill. A five-minute uphill hike from Monastiri Beach leads to the lovely 18th-century **Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi**, where you can admire the wooden iconostasis gilded with frescoes. The rest of the island is sparsely populated and covered in fragrant pine forests, filling the air with their delightful aroma.
The sole archaeological site on the island is the meager remnants of the **Temple of Poseidon**, built in 520 BCE and sacrilegiously dismantled in the 18th century. From Poros, you can take a water taxi to the Peloponnesian town of **Galatas**, from where it’s a 45-minute taxi ride to the ancient site of **Epidavros**, renowned for its stunning theater. Tour operators in Sferia also offer excursions to Epidavros. If you have an interest in antiquities, consider visiting the remains of ancient **Troezene**, once a powerful city, located outside the mountain village of **Trozina**, five miles west of Galatas.
**Where to Stay on Poros:** There’s nothing to dislike about the **Dimitra Blue Hotel**, a boutique establishment adorned in classic Greek whites and blues. Located on the north side of Sferia, it boasts a rooftop garden terrace, perfect for enjoying sundowner cocktails. If you prefer a beach location, choose the **New Aegli Hotel**, a bargain-priced four-star option overlooking Askeli beach.
### Hydra: Ouzo, Hills, and Not a Car in Sight
Rounding the Peloponnese peninsula, you reach the quixotic island of **Hydra**, situated in the Argolic Gulf. Long, slender, and oblong in shape, this barren and waterless isle is almost entirely rock. Despite its relatively large size, the only means of transport here are donkeys (Hydriots share a similar aversion to gas-powered vehicles as the Amish). Even bicycles are banned, contributing to the island’s unique and tranquil atmosphere.
This showcase island is a captivating sight when viewed from the water. You’ll immediately notice its tiny harbour, shaped like a perfect horseshoe, backed by 18th-century mansions nestled into a natural amphitheater. The island’s labyrinth of steep, narrow, marble streets adds to its glamour, making Hydra a trendy destination for yachtsmen and moneyed bohemians. There’s no better place to spend the day lazing away, sipping ouzo and coffee, playing backgammon with locals, and savouring the steady hum of cicadas and the strains of bouzouki music.
Water taxis are readily available to transport you to Hydra’s few pebbled beaches, offering refreshing respite from the heat. The waters surrounding the island are exceptionally clear and inviting, and the virtually uninhabited interior offers excellent hiking opportunities (except during the intense heat of midsummer). An easy option is the zigzagging, three-mile round-trip path to the hilltop **Moni Profiti Elia** monastery, home to a vast library and even more expansive views.
**Where to Stay on Hydra:** Our top pick is the intimate and secluded six-room **Phaedra Hotel**. Tucked away among the cobbled alleys of the old town, it compensates for its lack of sea views with its impeccable ambiance and superb breakfasts, served on the shaded terrace.
Alternatively, consider staying at the **Orloff Boutique Hotel**, a recently refurbished former monastery. Inside, you’ll discover original wooden floors, frescoed wood ceilings, and antique furnishings, creating an atmosphere of timeless elegance. You can enjoy breakfast in a patio garden shaded by fragrant citrus trees.
### Spetses: Culture by Day, Party by Night
As the most southerly of the Saronic Islands, this teardrop-shaped island, famously the setting for John Fowles’s novel, *The Magus*, is the biggest party destination in the archipelago. The affluent and historic old town (Dapia) of **Spetses** is characterized by its whitewashed Venetian mansions, while the maze of streets rising inland boasts a plethora of raucous cafés, restaurants, and bars, catering to a vibrant nightlife scene. Spetses was once a major shipbuilding center, and a few grizzled carpenters still practice their craft, hewing wooden boats in the traditional manner in the harbour.
While exploring the historic quarter, be sure to visit the **Bouboulina Museum**, dedicated to the illustrious Laskarina Bouboulina, a heroine of the Greek War of Independence (1821-29). She is said to have acquired a series of husbands – or at least lovers – at pistol point. The museum is housed in her former home. Nearby, another 18th-century mansion houses the **Spetses Museum**, with exhibits tracing the island’s history back to the classical period.
Beyond the town, this pine-forested island is almost entirely unpopulated. The coast is ringed by a meandering road, along which you’ll find crystal-clear coves with pebble beaches. Our favourites include **Zogeria**, a small cove at the northwest tip of the island; **Agia Marina**, a one-mile walk from Dapia, featuring beach bars, *tavernas*, and watersports; and the similarly populated **Agia Anargiri**, located some seven miles west of town. Water taxis can easily transport you to these idyllic beaches.
**Where to Stay on Spetses:** The peerless **Orloff Resort** is a conversion of a 19th-century Venetian mansion, updated with a contemporary design. It boasts a swimming pool surrounded by olive trees, creating the perfect setting for a leisurely breakfast. The owners also operate the gourmet Orloff Restaurant, located a 15-minute walk away on the Dapia harbour wharf.
Spetses’ stateliest building is the French Riviera-style **Poseidonion Grand Hotel**, which first opened its doors in 1914. Now fully refurbished, it continues to define Greek luxury, offering a spa, art gallery, fashion boutique, and a choice of fine-dining restaurants.
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