Though the nights are a little longer and the days cooler, December kicks off La Calendale Christmas season in Provence brightening spirits. Every village, town, and city gets a festive makeover of twinkling lights, lively window displays, and bustling Christmas markets. Plus, it’s time to hit the slopes of the Southern Alps now that the ski season is underway.
Even with a noticeable coolness in the air, the climate throughout Provence in December maintains a generally mild and pleasant character, boasting an average temperature range of approximately 3 to 11 degrees Celsius, equivalent to 37 to 52 degrees Fahrenheit. While the frequency of rainfall diminishes significantly compared to other months, there remains a reasonable likelihood of encountering an unexpected and sudden downpour. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you include an umbrella as an essential item in your travel luggage, ensuring preparedness for any potential precipitation.
One of the advantageous aspects of Mediterranean rainfall patterns is their typically short duration. These showers tend to dissipate rather quickly, leaving behind skies that are clear and filled with bright, radiant sunshine. Conversely, other regions within Provence may experience their own unique microclimates. For example, the northwestern portion of **Vaucluse**, along with the **Southern Alps** extending beyond Nice, often experiences colder temperatures, particularly during this time of year. These regional variations contribute to the diverse weather conditions that can be observed across Provence in December.
While the sea temperature may be a bit too chilly for casual swimmers, registering around 15 degrees Celsius (59 degrees Fahrenheit), those who are enthusiastic about watersports and possess a suitable wetsuit can still find enjoyment in the invigorating winter waters. The slightly choppy conditions can add an element of excitement for experienced water sports enthusiasts.
Traveling to Provence during the month of December is generally considered to be an off-season period. As a result, travelers can typically anticipate more affordable airfare and flight costs compared to the peak tourist seasons. However, it is important to note that as the Christmas holiday approaches, demand for travel accommodations and flights tends to increase as French tourists embark on their own holiday travels. Therefore, it is advisable to make reservations well in advance to secure desired bookings and potentially avoid higher prices. This surge in demand can lead to increased competition for available accommodations and transportation options.
Furthermore, if your travel plans include venturing onto the ski slopes, keep in mind that December marks the commencement of the ski season. This means that you will likely be sharing the slopes with other skiers and snowboarders, particularly around the Christmas and New Year holidays. This increased demand can lead to higher prices for ski passes, equipment rentals, and accommodations in ski resorts. However, the resorts located in **Les Alpes du Sud** (Southern Alps), including the departments of Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and Alpes-Maritimes, generally offer more budget-friendly options compared to the more renowned and popular resorts situated further north.
In the days leading up to Christmas, it is crucial to be aware that transportation services may operate on a reduced holiday schedule. This can affect the frequency and availability of trains, buses, and other forms of public transportation. It is highly recommended to double-check the operating hours of museums, monuments, churches, and other attractions you plan to visit, as many establishments may have adjusted their schedules or be closed entirely for the holiday season. Proper planning and awareness of potential closures can help avoid disappointment and ensure a smoother travel experience.
For those who enjoy winter sports and if the weather conditions are favorable in the mountainous areas, a trip to the ski slopes of Provence should be considered. The region boasts a selection of laid-back and family-friendly resorts that cater to skiers and snowboarders of all skill levels. Some of the top destinations for early-season skiing include the resorts of **Serre Chevalier**, situated near **Briançon** in the Alpes-de Haute-Provence department, and **Isola 2000**, located on the border between Italy and France in Alpes-Maritime. Unlike other parts of Provence, which often see little to no snowfall, the higher elevations of the **Southern Alps** typically experience sufficient snowfall by mid-December, making them ideal for winter sports activities. The varying elevations within the **Southern Alps** create a range of skiing experiences, from gentle slopes for beginners to challenging runs for more advanced skiers.
Alternatively, if your preference is to escape the colder temperatures, consider heading towards the **Riviera**. Here, you can enjoy invigorating walks along the Mediterranean coastline while basking in the sunshine. In the cooler evenings, find warmth and relaxation by settling down near a crackling fire while enjoying an aperitif. **Hyères**, a charming seaside locale that has historically attracted royalty and aristocrats during the winter months, is one of many worthwhile destinations to explore in the **Riviera**. The mild winter climate and picturesque coastal scenery of the **Riviera** make it a popular destination for those seeking respite from colder weather.
With the beginning of the Provençal Christmas season, known locally as *La Calendale*, there is a wide array of festive activities and events to cater to diverse tastes and interests. In the sophisticated city of **Aix-en-Provence**, immerse yourself in the festive atmosphere created by twinkling lights, captivating window displays, enticing food stalls, and bustling Christmas markets. Many other towns and villages throughout Provence, including **Saint-Rémy-de-Provence**, **Marseille**, Arles, and **Aubagne**, celebrate Christmas with great enthusiasm and unique traditions. If your travels take you to **Arles**, be sure to experience their street art festival, known as **Drôles de Noëls**, which offers a whimsical and creative perspective on the holiday season.
During the festive season, the numerous *marchés de Noël* (Christmas markets) scattered across Provence create an atmosphere of holiday cheer along their respective streets, squares, and marketplaces. No matter where you find yourself in Provence, take the opportunity to wander among the rows of small wooden chalets, searching for that perfect and unique gift. Immerse yourself in the sights and sounds of the season, including bright lights, laughter from children, and the delightful scents of Provençal soaps and orange flower-scented *pompes à l’huile*. Some of the more well-known Christmas market venues can be found in **Marseille**, Nice, and Avignon. In **Marseille’s** **Vieux** **Port**, the city’s *santonniers* (traditional ceramic-figurine makers) display their handcrafted wares in charming chalets. In the hilltop town of **Allauch**, you can discover an impressive Provençal *crib*, which can feature as many as 650 unique *santons*.
For those seeking outdoor adventures, consider renting a car and exploring the stunning **calanques**, where you can enjoy the benefit of less crowded conditions and easier parking during the off-season. The **Gorges du Verdon** offers plenty of breathtaking scenery to admire. However, it is important to note that the most spectacular section of the routes, known as **Route des Crêtes**, is typically closed during this time of year, and the nearby towns and villages tend to be very quiet. As an alternative, consider exploring the **Gorges de la Nesque** near Mont Ventoux, where the truffle season is well underway. Nature enthusiasts can venture to the southwest of Provence and explore the remote **Camargue**, which attracts a variety of migratory birds, including flocks of pink flamingos that remain in the region throughout the winter months.
As December progresses, the focus gradually shifts from Christmas celebrations to *le réveillon du jour de l’an* (New Year’s Eve). Traditionally, many *Provençaux* prefer to spend the evening in the company of friends and family, enjoying a quiet and intimate gathering with traditional delicacies like foie gras. However, restaurants in larger cities often offer elaborate and often pricey menus for those who prefer to celebrate the New Year with a night out on the town. While large-scale street celebrations are not typically a common occurrence, you can usually expect to witness fireworks displays along the coastline, particularly in cities such as **Nice**, **Sainte-Maxime**, and **Marseille**.
**Fête de la Sainte Barbe:** The Feast of Saint Barbara serves as the official commencement of the two-month *La Calendale* Christmas season, taking place on December 4th. During this celebration, wheat seeds or lentils are planted in sets of three to represent the Holy Trinity. These seedlings can often be seen adorning windowsills and shop counters, eventually making their way to the table of the Great Supper. As the Provençal saying goes, *Quand lou blad vèn bèn, tout vèn bèn*, which translates to “When the wheat goes well, everything goes well.”
**Christmas Eve & Christmas Day:** Both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day are widely celebrated throughout France, similar to many other countries that observe the Christian holiday. The celebrations typically involve a Christmas Eve meal, followed by a visit from Santa Claus during the night. Christmas Day is designated as a national bank holiday, resulting in the closure of many businesses and establishments.
**New Year’s Eve:** Cities and towns across Provence commemorate New Year’s Eve with fireworks displays. Friends and families come together to enjoy music, dancing, and champagne toasts, marking the transition into the new year.
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