Lush, steamy and unmistakably tropical, Colombia’s Amazon region seems very remote, even from the rest of the country. The main town, Leticia, is an easy-going, friendly little place, located right on the border with Brazil and Peru. But the main reason to visit is the Amazon River and the vast rainforest that surrounds it – full of strange and exotic plants and animals, from lazy sloths to electric eels – a massively important environment that provides a lung for the whole planet.
## Local Insights: Discovering the Heart of the Amazon
Embark on an unforgettable journey into the depths of the Amazon rainforest, and to maximize your experience, consider these local insights:
* The prime window for an Amazon adventure stretches from November to February. This period offers a unique opportunity to witness the dual nature of the jungle, with both dry expanses and areas gracefully embracing the seasonal floods. This offers a varied and dynamic perspective of the Amazon’s diverse ecosystems.
* Take advantage of the exceptionally convenient open-border policy, a fantastic perk allowing seamless, visa-free excursions to both the Peruvian and Brazilian territories that share the majestic Amazon River. Immerse yourself in the cultural nuances and ecological variations that each country offers.
* Navigating between Leticia and the neighboring Brazilian town of Tabatinga is remarkably straightforward, thanks to the reliable and frequent bus services that connect these two vibrant hubs. For your convenience, both Colombian and Brazilian currencies are readily accepted, offering flexibility and ease of transaction as you traverse the border.
## Unveiling the Amazonian Tapestry: An Overview of Leticia and its Surroundings
Leticia, a unique corner of Colombia, carves out its place as a slender trapezium that reaches down between Brazil and Peru, gifting Colombia with a precious foothold on the mighty Amazon River. Venture across the river, and you’ll find yourself on the Peruvian side, where the landscape transforms into a low-lying forest, entirely submerged under water for a significant three months each year, a testament to the river’s powerful influence.
Contrastingly, the Colombian side boasts a high forest ecosystem, nourished by a network of numerous rivers but ingeniously avoiding complete inundation. This distinctive characteristic fosters a profoundly unique environment, setting it apart from its Peruvian counterpart.
The tranquil town of Leticia, widely acknowledged as the most relaxed urban center along the entire Amazon, serves as an ideal launchpad for those eager to explore the surrounding rainforest and embark on captivating river excursions. A notable destination is the eco-village of Puerto Nariño, celebrated as a shining example of sustainable living practices.
This region is also home to numerous Indigenous communities, including the Ticunas, the Yaguas, and the Cocamas. Venturing deeper into the forest unveils an extraordinary opportunity to encounter Indigenous peoples who steadfastly maintain their traditional hunter-gatherer lifestyles, a way of life that has remained virtually untouched for generations.
The unique tri-border location of Leticia provides effortless access to neighboring parts of Peru and Brazil, offering a multicultural experience within easy reach. A short boat ride across the Amazon will take you to the island of Santa Rosa in Peru, where you can indulge in an authentic and delectable ceviche for lunch. Back in Leticia, a leisurely stroll leads to the Brazilian town of Tabatinga, inviting you to savor Brazil’s iconic cocktail, the caipirinha, while basking in the golden hues of a perfect sundowner.
While access to other, more remote areas of the Colombian Amazon region is gradually opening up via air travel from Bogotá or Villavicencio, frequently utilizing cargo planes, Leticia remains the preeminent and most easily accessible gateway for exploring the wonders of the Amazon region.
## Crafting Your Amazon Itinerary: Determining the Ideal Length of Stay
To truly immerse yourself in the wonders of the Amazon, allocating at least five days and four nights is highly recommended. A comprehensive excursion into the heart of the rainforest typically spans three days and two nights, and you will likely want to extend that to a longer period to deepen the experience. Furthermore, dedicate at least a day or two to leisurely exploring Leticia and absorbing its unique atmosphere. For many travelers, a meticulously planned 7-Day tour encompassing Leticia, Puerto Nariño, and the enchanting landscapes in between presents an ideal balance of adventure and relaxation.
If your itinerary allows only three days, while a deep jungle exploration might be limited, you can still partake in enriching experiences. Opt for a guided one-day walk, ascend to the canopy level at “Los Kilometers” for breathtaking views, embark on a day-trip to Puerto Nariño, and even make a quick hop over to Peru for a refreshing ceviche and Brazil for an authentic caipirinha, the quintessential Brazilian cocktail.
With six days at your disposal, a three-day “bit of everything” excursion becomes an absolute must. This allows you to traverse the jungle on foot or by boat, engage in the thrilling activity of piranha fishing, experience the magic of camping in the forest, and then retreat to the comforts of a well-appointed hotel in Leticia. A day trip to Puerto Nariño is another enticing option to further enrich your Amazonian adventure.
For those fortunate enough to have ten days, the possibilities expand significantly. Embark on a more extensive and immersive jungle tour, exploring both the “low forest,” which undergoes seasonal flooding, and the “high forest,” which remains above water year-round. Alternatively, opt for a shorter tour and dedicate more time to visiting Puerto Nariño and immersing yourself in the culture and traditions of a Ticuna village.
## Pre-Trip Preparations: Planning a Seamless Amazonian Experience
Having secured your flights and accommodations, it’s crucial to address the essential logistical aspects to ensure a seamless and worry-free Amazonian adventure:
### Health Considerations: Prioritizing Your Well-being in the Amazon
Mosquitoes in the Amazon are known to transmit not only malaria but also other diseases such as yellow fever, dengue fever, and the zika virus. Fortunately, effective mosquito repellents containing DEET are readily available in Leticia. However, it might be worthwhile to consider bringing a high-concentration DEET repellent from home or opting for one containing the less toxic PMD. While malaria prevention drugs are available, consulting your doctor before commencing any prophylactic treatment is highly advisable.
Ensuring you’ve been vaccinated against yellow fever is paramount, and it’s wise to carry your vaccination certificate with you, as immigration authorities might request it. In the event of stings or bites, packing some anti-histamines might also prove beneficial.
### Weather Patterns: Understanding the Amazonian Climate
The average temperature in Leticia hovers consistently around just under 80°F (just over 25°C) throughout the year, accompanied by high humidity and substantial rainfall, which gradually intensifies from November to May, causing the river levels to rise. Low forest areas experience complete inundation, though still accessible by boat, from March until the end of May. As the rain subsides and the floods recede, the driest period unfolds in July and August.
When packing, prioritize lightweight clothing and consider bringing an umbrella. Waterproof ponchos are also readily available for purchase locally. Opting for long sleeves and trousers can provide a degree of protection against insect bites.
## Optimal Timing: When to Embark on Your Amazonian Expedition
The Amazon extends its allure year-round, with high forest areas, predominantly on the Colombian side of the border, accessible for exploration at any time. In contrast, low forest areas, largely situated on the Peruvian side and favored by many visitors, offer accessibility by boat during periods of high river levels and on foot when the water recedes. The most opportune time to plan your visit falls between November and February, allowing you to experience a harmonious blend of both environments.
Given the popularity of the two daily flights from Bogotá, securing your tickets well in advance is highly recommended, particularly during peak holiday seasons such as Christmas, New Year, and Semana Santa (the week preceding Easter).
### Festivals & Special Events: Immersing Yourself in Local Celebrations
* **March:** Santa Semana or Holy Week (the week before Easter) is celebrated with great religious devotion, featuring church visits and reenactments of the Easter Bible story throughout Colombia.
* **April 25:** The anniversary of Leticia’s founding is marked with a vibrant parade that culminates at the main square, the Parque de Santander.
* **July:** The Festival de la Confraternidad Amazónica celebrates the camaraderie between the countries sharing the tri-border region – Colombia, Peru, and Brazil. This festive occasion features spirited sports competitions and a captivating beauty contest.
* **November:** The Pirarucú de Oro Festival is a celebration of Amazonian popular music, held at the end of November. The event features a grand stage in Parque Orellana and enthralling live performances by bands from across the region.
* **December 7:** Dia de las Velitas sees locals lighting candles outside their homes in the evening to celebrate the Immaculate Conception, creating a charming festive atmosphere throughout the town.
Christmas and New Year are celebrated in Leticia following Colombian traditions, with gift-giving on Christmas Eve and celebratory feasts on Christmas Day. New Year’s Eve tends to be observed as a family-oriented occasion rather than a night for exuberant partying.
## Safety and Security: Exercising Caution in a Border Region
Given its location as a border area, smuggling activities can occur, sometimes accompanied by associated criminal elements. While the center of town is generally considered safe, it is advisable to avoid wandering into the outskirts, especially during the evening hours. Tabatinga, on the Brazilian side, tends to be less secure than Leticia, necessitating extra vigilance when visiting at night. After dark in Tabatinga, opting for cabs or motorbike taxis is preferable to walking alone.
## Navigating Your Journey: Getting To and Around
Leticia’s quaint Vasquez Cobo airport, situated at the northern edge of town, hosts two daily flights from Colombia’s capital, Bogotá, operated by LATAM and Avianca, both offering international connections into Bogotá from North America. A leisurely twenty-minute stroll or a short taxi ride will transport you from the airport to the town center.
Beyond this, the neighboring Brazilian town of Tabatinga provides flights to Manaus, offering connections to the rest of Brazil. Boats also traverse the river, connecting Tabatinga to Manaus downstream and Iquitos in Peru upstream. Given the absence of road connections from Leticia to the rest of Colombia, reaching Leticia from Bogotá without flying would necessitate an overland journey to Ecuador, followed by a downriver boat trip to Iquitos – a feasible but time-consuming endeavor spanning several weeks.
## Local Transport: Getting Around
Leticia’s compact size makes it easily navigable on foot. Alternatively, motorbike taxis offer convenient transport to Tabatinga and destinations along the “Kilometers” road. Tuk Tuks and traditional cabs are also available, though slightly more expensive.
Additionally, colectivos (minibuses) ply the route between Leticia and Tabatinga, with some only reaching the center of Tabatinga and others extending past the airport to Comara. Another colectivo service connects to destinations along the “Kilometers” road up to Km11. Both colectivo services commence their journeys at Plaza Orellana.
River transport also abounds. Informal ferry boats cluster at the waterside in Leticia and Tabatinga, offering rides to Santa Rosa on the Peruvian side. Furthermore, speedboats depart Leticia three times daily for the two-hour journey upriver to Puerto Nariño.
## Accommodation Options: Where to Rest Your Head in Leticia
Leticia offers a selection of hotel options, ranging from basic to comfortable.
### Hotel Decameron
This safari-style hotel is Leticia’s best. It is not a five-star hotel but it is a lovely place to stay, with 28 spacious rooms, all equipped with air-conditioning or ceiling fans, cable TV, a mini-bar and a hammock. Room service is available.
The room rate includes a complimentary buffet breakfast, and the hotel has a breezy restaurant, a lobby bar and a pool. They also put on music and traditional dances, with something different every night, and there are free tours of the town.
The Decameron is located just out of the center, far enough to be free from the incessant traffic, yet just a block away from the Parque Orellana. It is only 300 m from the port and the town’s main square, the Parque de Santander, so it’s location is ideal for both peace and quiet, and easy access to the town.
* Where: Carrera 11 #6–11
* Contact: Tel: 8-592 6200
### Amazon B&B
This is Leticia’s first and best boutique hotel, with just ten rooms, and you can be sure you’ll be well looked after here. The rooms are bungalow-style with thatched awnings, set around a lovely little lawn. They’re spacious and airy, with big, comfy beds and cool, simple décor, and they’re equipped with refrigerators and modern bathrooms. Every room has a verandah with a hammock, and there’s 24-hour room service.
Room rates include an excellent breakfast, with Colombian, Brazilian and Continental options, there’s an outdoor jacuzzi, and plenty of space to relax. The staff readily give out great advice and suggestions, and they also like to give guests fruit juice treats from time to time.
You couldn’t hope for a better location either, in a quiet, residential street, but less than two blocks off the main square, and within walking distance of the town’s attractions.
* Where: Calle 12 #9–30
* Contact: Tel: 8-592 4981
### Waira Suites Hotel
Centrally located Waira Suites has fast become one of Leticia’s most popular places to stay. It’s super-clean and very modern, with air-conditioned rooms and good sound insulation, so it’s pretty quiet, even though it’s in the middle of town. After a trip to the jungle, those crisp white sheets and king-size beds are just heaven, and as an extra little touch, the room decor is seasonal, with splashes of color which they change according to the time of year.
The hotel has two swimming pools, not to mention an excellent bar. Buffet breakfasts here are great, and it’s well worth checking out the restaurant at dinner time too. Our tip for the best room is to take one upstairs at the front.
* Where: Carrera 10 #7–36
* Contact: Tel: 8-592 4428
### Apaporis Hostel
This quiet retreat, a little way out of town towards the airport, has a peaceful and relaxing location in a quiet neighborhood. The owner, an academic at the local university, is a mine of information about the region and its people. The place is custom-built from scratch, using recycled materials wherever possible – you can even see the drink bottles built into the walls to allow light through at strategic places.
Every room has a hammock and a bed – you can sleep or relax on either. While the Apaporis isn’t quite a hostel as the name suggests, it does have hostel-style prices, making it one of the best bargains in town. It’s also very handy if you want to get a flight up to Bogotá, or to one of the more local destinations served from Leticia’s airport. Breakfast is included.
* Where: Calle 17 #8–16
* Contact: Tel: 311 886 5996
### Hotel Takana
Just across the border in Brazil, the Takana is the best place to stay in Tabatinga. Elegant, in a modest kind of way, and decorated with jolly painted wood carvings, it has a range of rooms, including suites with very spacious rooms and big balconies.
The breakfast here is excellent – a proper Brazilian affair, with regional specialties too. The rooms are arranged around a lush little garden with a fountain. The hotel has a bar and a restaurant, and the location is quiet but just two blocks from Tabatinga’s main drag, where you can pop down at lunchtime for a meal. The local favorite is a *por quilo* meal (you choose what you want from a mixed buffet, weigh it, and pay for it by weight). In the evening, a number of bars serve *caipirinha* (Brazil’s national cocktail).
Because of its location, this hotel is especially handy if you’re taking a boat down the river to Manaus.
* Where: Rua Osvaldo Cruz 970, Tabatinga
* Contact: Tel: 97-3412 3557
## Culinary Delights: Savoring the Flavors of the Amazon
The local culinary scene revolves around fish, fresh from the Amazon, showcasing a diverse array of local species unique to this region. A particular delicacy is pirarucú, a meaty and exceptionally flavorful fish. Pirarucú breeds from mid-November until mid-March. During this time, it is recommended to eat it with sustainability in mind. For the adventurous palate, mojojoy, local jungle grubs, are often served stuffed with meat. On Sundays, numerous food vendors and even private residences offer suckling pig with rice along the streets.
Leticia’s premier restaurant is Tierras Amazónicas (address: Calle 8 #7–50), where the signature dish is fillet of river fish steamed in a banana leaf. Complementing the meal is an extensive selection of delicious juices made from Amazonian fruits, with intriguing names such as copoazú or kamu-kamu.
Local fusion cuisine takes center stage just around the corner at El Cielo (address: Carrera 6 #6–11), which specializes in pizza-like casabes, featuring a choice of locally inspired toppings on a cassava-bread base. If you’re feeling adventurous, this is the ideal place to sample mojojoy as a starter.
Another delightful experience is a boat trip to Isla Santa Rosa, in Peru, where the Brisas del Amazonas restaurant serves an excellent Amazonian ceviche (raw fish marinated in lime juice), paired with ice-cold Peruvian beer. During your meal, local macaws often make an appearance, adding a touch of wildlife charm.
In the late afternoon, venture to the Comara Show Club, situated at the far end of Tabatinga, where you can savor a cairpirinha – Brazil’s national cocktail, blending cane spirit and lime juice – while watching the sun gracefully descend over the river. On Sundays, a lively show unfolds with singers and exotic dancers (of both sexes), drawing large crowds for an unforgettable party.
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