Fjordkysten & Nordfjord, just north of Bergen, is where Fjord Norway still hangs onto its roots. This region is where mountains and glaciers scratch the sky and locals are counted in the tens of thousands—in other words, the perfect place to get off the beaten path.
Just a couple of hours north of the vibrant city of Bergen lies a hidden gem, a slice of authentic Norway waiting to be discovered and cherished. This is the little-visited Fjord Coast, often referred to as Fjordkysten, a region that offers a captivating tapestry of photogenic coastlines, charming fishing villages, and a seemingly endless array of thousands of islands, majestic fjords, and pristine beaches. This remarkable area is also home to Nordfjord, a region renowned for its breathtaking natural beauty and, most notably, Jostedalsbreen National Park, which safeguards the largest glacier in mainland Europe, a truly awe-inspiring sight to behold.
As Norway steadily climbs the ranks of must-see destinations for travelers from every corner of the globe, those lesser-known areas, often boasting names that might seem challenging to pronounce at first glance, are experiencing a gradual but noticeable increase in tourist traffic. Even within the captivating Fjordkysten & Nordfjord region, you might encounter a few more fellow travelers during the peak summer months, although the crowds are significantly smaller compared to those found in more heavily touristed and popular areas of Norway. To truly immerse yourself in the magic of this region, the best approach is to rent a car and embark on a self-guided adventure. By doing so, you’ll unlock the ultimate freedom to explore and experience even the most hidden and untouched corners of this enchanting destination.
## Fjordkysten: A Realm of Untamed Beauty
The sheer variety of activities and experiences available in the Fjordkysten region is truly astounding, ranging from the serene to the utterly wild. So, let’s begin with one of the most historically significant and captivating aspects of this area: its Viking heritage.
If you have a passion for history and a desire to delve into the past, be sure to visit the remarkable petroglyph fields at Vingen in Bremanger and Ausevika in Flora. These ancient rock carvings represent the largest collection of their kind in all of Norway. It’s important to remember that Vikings did not use the alphabet in the same way we do today; their stories and beliefs were often expressed through these intricate carvings. Nearby, you’ll find Millstone Park in Hyllestad, home to the largest stone quarry dating back to the Viking Age. While this may not sound particularly significant at first, it’s crucial to understand that stone was an incredibly valuable resource for the Vikings, akin to gold in its importance. It was used in the creation of everything from weapons and tools to grinding flour for sustenance. At the modern-day museum located at the park, you can even try your hand at grinding flour or carving soapstone, providing a hands-on experience of what life was like for the Vikings.
If your itinerary allows for it, consider taking a ferry out to Utvær, a small and charming island that marks the westernmost point in all of Norway. Here, you’ll be able to see traces on the rocks where Vikings are said to have sharpened their swords before embarking on their westward voyages. Alternatively, you can visit Florø, the most westerly city in the county, which offers breathtaking views over the dramatic cliff-strewn waters. For a quick and scenic boat ride, you can also explore the Island of Kinn, home to the fabled Kinnakyrkja (the Kinn Church), a historic church dating back to the 1100s, making it one of the oldest and most historically significant churches in the country.
And then, of course, there are the incredible opportunities for adventure that abound in this region. While it’s undoubtedly one of the more well-known attractions, it’s important to remember that Jostedalsbreen, Europe’s largest mainland glacier, sits at the very beginnings of the Nordfjord, deep within the heart of Fjordkysten territory. Not too far away, you’ll also find Hornindalsvatnet, Europe’s deepest lake, plunging to a depth of 1,686 feet. Both of these natural wonders offer truly epic opportunities for adventure and exploration. When it comes to breathtaking glacial views, many consider Briksdalsbreen to be an even more stunning and awe-inspiring sight.
You can also embark on a hike around the aforementioned Island of Kinn, a popular activity for visitors. However, this is just one of the many hiking opportunities available in the area. Consider exploring the sea cliff hikes up Blegja, Store Batalden, or Alden, all of which offer fantastic panoramic views of the rugged, rocky waters below. For those seeking a more gentle and relaxed experience, many of the roads in and around Hyllestad are perfect for leisurely walks, with minimal traffic to disrupt your peaceful stroll.
And we haven’t even begun to explore the incredible opportunities that the water itself provides! The area is renowned for its excellent kayaking and diving conditions. Gulen Dive Resort offers comprehensive services, taking care of all the logistics and hard work for you. You can also find excellent diving spots around Flora and Bremanger. A number of WWII shipwrecks are scattered throughout these waters, offering a unique and fascinating glimpse into the past for experienced divers. For those interested in kayaking, be sure to check out the “Venice of the North,” a nickname given to the islands of Solund, Bulandet, and Værlandet. There are plenty of reputable outfitters in the area who can provide you with the necessary gear and guidance to ensure a safe and enjoyable kayaking experience.
## Nordfjord: A Symphony of Water, Islands, and Hills
Kalvag is nestled at the main entrance to the Nordfjord, the sixth-largest fjord in Norway. This strategic location means that it’s surrounded by islands, water, and rolling hills on all sides, creating a truly picturesque and serene setting. In fact, Kalvag is technically located on an island itself, although it’s conveniently connected to the mainland by Route 616. Base yourself in Kalvag, and you’ll find yourself at the literal portal to a myriad of Nordfjord adventures, while also enjoying unparalleled views of the sunrise and sunset over the surrounding landscape.
The town of Kalvag experienced its heyday back in the 19th century, when its bustling harbor served as a key hub for fishing boats. Today, you can still get a sense of that old-school Norwegian “fishing village” atmosphere as you wander among the traditional fishing huts. However, nowadays, the experience includes a broader range of activities, such as kayaking, hiking, crabbing, visiting art galleries, and even touring an active herring factory to learn about the local fishing industry. Knutholmen, a unique establishment constructed out of old waterfront buildings, functions as a hotel but also boasts an awesome sea-to-table restaurant, where you can savor the freshest local seafood. The staff at Knutholmen are also incredibly helpful in organizing various excursions into the surrounding area, ensuring that you make the most of your visit.
Just 30 minutes north of Kalvag, you’ll discover one of the area’s most stunning beaches: Grotle. If you visit during the summertime, you’ll likely be struck by the colors that this beach takes on, which often evoke a more Caribbean feel than a typical Norwegian landscape. With its pristine white sand and mesmerizing turquoise waters, Grotle is a true gem. West of Grotle lies Hornelen, the highest sea cliff in all of Europe. If there isn’t any snow on top, be sure to add it to your list of hikes! Alternatively, you can wait a bit, as a *via ferrata* (a protected climbing route with steps and cables) is currently being built, making the ascent easier and safer for visitors.
A little further north, you’ll come across Måløy, home to the iconic Kråkenes Lighthouse. Chances are, it will be one of the most beautiful lighthouses you’ve ever laid eyes on. It stands proudly on the northwestern tip of the island of Vågsøy, where it’s exposed to the full force of the waves. In fact, the waves are so powerful that they sometimes even crash onto the roof of the lighthouse!
From here, make your way to Loen, where you can experience the thrill of riding the Skylift up to Mt. Hoven, reaching a height of over 3,300 feet in the air. At the summit, you’ll find a restaurant and an observation platform, allowing you to soak in the breathtaking panoramic views. For those who are more interested in exploring nature, there’s access to numerous hiking trails during the summer months and snowshoeing/cross-country skiing trails in the winter. And for those adrenaline junkies seeking an extra dose of excitement, there’s a via ferrata that leads up the mountain, complete with a suspension bridge that offers an unforgettable photo opportunity.
And in case you’re wondering about transportation, ferries operate frequently throughout these areas, providing convenient access to the various islands and destinations. However, it’s important to note that the ferry schedules are not so frequent that you shouldn’t plan your itinerary around them. By doing so, you’ll save yourself a significant amount of waiting time and be able to accomplish far more during your trip.
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