Iceland’s interior is by far its most rugged area. The terrain can be tough, and the F-roads are only accessible by jeeps with 4WD (in Winter, only by modified “super jeeps”). But the increased difficulty level means you will have the place to yourself, as few tourists reach the highlands.
## Exploring the Majestic Highlands of Iceland: An In-Depth Guide to Off-the-Beaten-Path Adventures
Iceland’s highlands beckon with an irresistible allure, promising unforgettable adventures for those who dare to venture beyond the well-trodden tourist trails. Here, amidst raw, untamed landscapes, you’ll discover some of the most breathtaking hiking destinations on the planet. Imagine traversing the vibrant, volcanic terrains of Landmannalaugar, losing yourself in the enigmatic canyons and otherworldly vistas of Þórsmörk (Thorsmork, “Thor’s Valley”), and immersing yourself in the captivating geothermal wonders of Hveradalir Geothermal Area. The highlands offer an experience unlike any other, a chance to connect with nature in its purest, most powerful form. Prepare to be amazed by the stark beauty, the dramatic contrasts, and the sheer sense of freedom that permeates this extraordinary region.
**Highlights of Your Highland Adventure:**
* **Landmannalaugar: A Hiker’s Paradise:** Embark on exhilarating hikes through the kaleidoscopic volcanic landscapes of Landmannalaugar. The area is renowned for its rhyolite mountains, painted in hues of red, orange, yellow, and green, creating a surreal and captivating panorama. Challenge yourself with the iconic 4-day Laugavegur trek, a journey that culminates in the stunning valley of Þórsmörk.
* **Þórsmörk (Thorsmork): The Valley of Thunder:** Discover the enchanting beauty of Þórsmörk, a valley nestled amidst towering glaciers and carved by the relentless force of glacial rivers. Named after Thor, the Norse god of thunder, this area offers a diverse range of hiking trails, from gentle riverside strolls to challenging ascents offering panoramic views.
* **Hveradalir Geothermal Area: A Symphony of Steam and Color:** Immerse yourself in the otherworldly beauty of Hveradalir Geothermal Area. Explore a landscape dotted with steaming vents, bubbling mud pools, and vividly colored hills. Wander through this geothermal wonderland, marveling at the raw power and beauty of nature’s forces.
* **Askja Crater (and the Warm Embrace of Viti):** Journey to the remote Askja Crater, a colossal caldera formed by a volcanic eruption. Descend into the Víti crater, a smaller, more intimate caldera filled with warm, milky-blue geothermal waters, perfect for a rejuvenating soak.
* **Conquering Iceland’s Infamous “F-Roads”:** Embrace the challenge of driving Iceland’s notorious “F-Roads,” unpaved mountain roads that lead to the most remote and desolate areas of the highlands. This is your chance to escape the crowds and discover the untamed beauty of Iceland’s interior.
**Overview: Embracing the Highland Spirit**
Iceland’s highlands represent the very essence of untamed beauty and adventurous exploration. Within this vast and sparsely populated region lie some of the country’s most treasured hiking destinations. Imagine yourself traversing the vibrant, volcanic landscapes of Landmannalaugar, where red and orange mountains rise majestically against the sky, creating a scene that seems plucked from another world. Picture yourself navigating the intricate canyons and awe-inspiring landscapes of Þórsmörk (Thorsmork, “Thor’s Valley”), a haven for hikers seeking both challenge and breathtaking views. And then there’s Hveradalir Geothermal Area, a realm of otherworldly beauty where you can wander amidst steam vents and bubbling mud pools, immersing yourself in the raw power of geothermal activity.
These are just glimpses of the experiences that await you in the Icelandic highlands. This is a realm of unparalleled natural beauty, a place where you can disconnect from the everyday and reconnect with the wild heart of Iceland.
**Þórsmörk (Thorsmork, the “Valley of Thor”): A Hiker’s Paradise**
Þórsmörk, also known as Thorsmork, rightfully earns its place as one of Iceland’s premier hiking destinations, demanding a prominent spot on your travel itinerary. This stunning valley, steeped in Norse mythology and named after Thor, the mighty God of Thunder, has been dramatically sculpted by glacial river floods triggered by volcanic eruptions beneath the ice. Keep an eye out for the visible remnants of ash and lava flow resulting from the momentous 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajokull, an event that brought European air travel to a standstill for an entire week.
Prepare to be mesmerized by the endless viewpoints that Þórsmörk offers. Spend countless days scaling mountains, traversing cliffs, and discovering hidden waterfalls, dormant volcanoes, and majestic glaciers. The trails and terrain in Þórsmörk present a diverse range of challenges, with some sections requiring you to cross glacial rivers. **A crucial safety note:** Never attempt to cross the glacial river Krossá on foot; always utilize the bridge provided. This river is notoriously strong and unpredictable, and attempting to ford it can be extremely dangerous.
Make sure to visit the mountain huts within Þórsmörk. These huts serve as invaluable resources, providing you with detailed hiking maps and essential information about the area’s trails, conditions, and safety precautions. The knowledgeable staff can offer insights into the best routes for your skill level and interests.
**Hiking the Fimmvörðuháls Trail: From Skogafoss to Þórsmörk**
For an immersive experience in the southern highlands, consider embarking on the renowned Fimmvörðuháls Trail, a challenging but rewarding day hike that stretches from the majestic Skogafoss waterfall to the breathtaking valley of Þórsmörk. The trail commences alongside the cascading waters of Skogafoss, then follows the path of the Skógá river, revealing a succession of approximately 20 waterfalls – a true “waterfall way.”
As you ascend, you’ll find yourself traversing the landscape between two imposing ice caps: Eyjafjallajökull, the volcano that disrupted air travel in 2010, and Mýrdalsjökull, which conceals the potentially explosive Katla volcano beneath its icy embrace. The trail will lead you past the youngest craters, Magni and Móði, before rewarding you with a panoramic vista of Þórsmörk. From there, a final descent takes you to the end of the trail.
At the end of this epic hike, you have the option of camping in the mountain huts, immersing yourself in the tranquility of the highlands, or arranging one-way transport to return to your vehicle parked at the trail’s starting point.
Be aware that the Fimmvörðuháls Trail is a demanding undertaking: a 25km trek with a significant elevation gain of 1000m. Adequate preparation is essential. Carry plenty of water, nourishing food, a reliable map, a GPS device, waterproof clothing, and layers to ensure warmth in unpredictable weather conditions.
**Completing the Laugavegur Trail from Landmannalaugar**
The Laugavegur Trail, a celebrated 4-day hiking adventure, culminates in the picturesque valley of Þórsmörk. If your time is limited, you can experience a portion of this iconic trail by starting in Þórsmörk and hiking in reverse, exploring the area on a day trip. Alternatively, you can choose from the numerous day hikes that originate within Þórsmörk, allowing you to discover the valley’s diverse landscapes at your own pace.
**Spending a Night in Þórsmörk: Embracing the Serenity**
After a long and strenuous day of hiking along the Fimmvörðuháls Trail from Skogar or completing the Laugavegur Trail from Landmannalaugar, you might find yourself yearning for a moment of respite and tranquility. Consider spending a night in the secluded Húsadalur Valley, allowing you to fully reflect on your accomplishments before returning to the bustling atmosphere of the Ring Road. The Volcano Huts offer a delightful blend of natural immersion and comfortable amenities, providing a well-deserved reward after a day of challenging exploration.
**Landmannalaugar: A Volcanic Wonderland**
For an experience that is as impressive as it is distinct from Þórsmörk, venture into the volcanic wonderland of Landmannalaugar. Here, you can embark on exhilarating day hikes amidst volcanic craters, steaming vents, and geothermal hotspots. As you navigate the trails, you’ll be surrounded by the breathtaking beauty of red and orange rhyolite mountains, creating an unforgettable visual spectacle. Landmannalaugar marks the starting point of the renowned Laugavegur Trail, a 4-day trek that leads to Þórsmörk.
Reaching Landmannalaugar requires a commitment to adventure. The journey involves a 2-hour drive along the challenging F-roads, where you’ll encounter several river crossings. The easiest approach is typically via F-29 to F-208, entering from the north. Nearing your destination, you’ll face one final river crossing. It’s advisable to park your vehicle before this crossing and walk the remaining 1/4 mile, as many rental cars have lower ground clearance, and highland driving is often not covered by rental insurance.
Once you’ve arrived in Landmannalaugar, spend a day exploring the diverse network of hiking trails and indulging in the rejuvenating natural hot springs that flow through the river. At the base of the trails, you’ll find a small information center where you can obtain hiking maps and learn more about the area.
**Here are some of the highlights that Landmannalaugar has to offer:**
* **Laugahraun Lava Field Hike to Mt. Brennisteinsalda (2 hours):** Embark on a captivating 2-hour hike through the Laugahraun lava field, a surreal landscape of jagged rocks and hardened lava flows. The trail leads to the summit of Mt. Brennisteinsalda, a colorful mountain offering panoramic views of the surrounding area.
* **Mt. Bláhnjúkur Hike (1 hour):** Ascend Mt. Bláhnjúkur, a striking mountain known for its distinctive blue-black color. The 1-hour hike to the summit is steep but rewarding, offering breathtaking views of Landmannalaugar and the surrounding highlands.
* **Ljótipollur: The Jewel of the Highlands:** Discover Ljótipollur, a stunning explosion crater filled with a vibrant blue pool of water. The contrast between the deep blue of the lake and the surrounding bright red mountains creates a scene of unparalleled beauty.
* **Frostastaðavatn: A Lakeside Escape:** Explore Frostastaðavatn, a large lake popular for fishing and offering a tranquil escape into nature. A hike around the lake’s perimeter takes approximately 3 hours and meanders through a fascinating lava field.
* **The Laugavegur Trail: The Beginning of an Epic Journey:** Experience the very beginning of the celebrated Laugavegur Trail. Hike for 10-20 minutes and then turn left to create a loop back to the starting point, or continue along the trail for a more extended adventure.
* **Soaking in the Hot Springs:** Rejuvenate your body and soul by soaking in the natural hot springs at the base of the trails. The water temperature varies depending on proximity to the source, allowing you to find the perfect spot to relax and unwind.
**Askja Crater (and Viti): A Journey to the Heart of Volcanic Activity**
Visitors exploring the Lake Myvatn region in northern Iceland might want to dedicate a full day to discovering the highland area within the northern reaches of Vatnajökull National Park. The undisputed star of this region is Askja Crater, a massive 5-mile wide caldera that has been flooded with water, forming a deep lake. This lake is the deepest in Iceland, plunging to depths of over 200 meters. The caldera was created by a powerful eruption that occurred in the southern part of the caldera in 1875.
From the designated parking area, a well-marked trail guides you to Askja in approximately 40 minutes. For a more challenging and rewarding hike, consider the longer route from Drekagil, traversing the Dyngjufjöll Mountains to the Víti crater, a journey that takes approximately 2-3 hours each way.
Most visitors are drawn to the smaller caldera, Víti (“Hell”), where you can carefully descend the sometimes slippery slope to bathe in the warm, milky-blue geothermal waters contained within the crater. The small lake’s temperature averages around 30 degrees Celsius, but it can fluctuate based on snow melt. You can hike around the crater and connect to Askja via several trails in the area.
**Getting to Askja: A Highland Road Trip**
Reaching Askja requires a significant commitment to travel. The drive from Mývatn takes approximately 4 hours each way in a fully equipped 4WD jeep. Two different routes lead to Askja, both branching off the Ring Road about 30 minutes east of Lake Myvatn. The route along F-905 to F-910 involves smaller river crossings, while the F-88 route may present crossings that are too challenging for smaller SUVs.
**Important Note:** A 4WD vehicle is absolutely essential for reaching Askja. If you lack a suitable vehicle, several day tours depart from Akureyri and the Myvatn area.
**Dreki Mountain Huts at Askja: An Overnight Adventure**
If you desire to spend more time exploring the Askja region, consider an overnight stay in the nearby mountain huts at Dreki. The two mountain huts can accommodate approximately 60 people in total, but you’ll need to bring your own sleeping bag. A camping site is also available nearby if you prefer to bring your own tent.
Seasonal availability is subject to weather conditions and snow melt. The huts typically open in July and close in early September. It’s crucial to call ahead to inquire about weather conditions and availability before planning your stay.
**Kerlingarfjöll, Hveradalir, Hveravellir: A Geothermal Paradise**
Embark on a journey to discover one of Iceland’s largest and most captivating geothermal and hot spring areas. Drive approximately 2 hours north from Gullfoss along the F-35 to reach this hidden gem. Within this “valley of hot springs,” you can spend an entire day exploring a network of trails that wind through red and orange mountains, past steaming vents, and around bubbling hot pools.
For a more immersive experience, consider the 7-mile upper Hveradalir Trail, which provides a comprehensive overview of the area’s top sights. While other geothermal areas, such as Hverir Hverarönd near Lake Myvatn and Geysir Geothermal Area near the Golden Circle, offer glimpses of geothermal activity, none can compare to the sheer scale and diversity of this geothermal wonderland. As an added bonus, you’ll encounter far fewer tourists, allowing for a more intimate and personal experience.
**Geothermal Pool at Hveravellir: A Relaxing Oasis**
For a truly unique and secluded experience, immerse yourself in the geothermal pool at Hveravellir. Surrounded by the geothermal area, the Kjalhraun lava field, and the majestic Langjökull glacier, this pool offers a tranquil oasis in the heart of the highlands. The pool’s temperature is maintained by a blend of hot and cold water, both flowing naturally into the pool. While the pool can accommodate around 20 people, you might find yourself enjoying it in complete solitude.
**Reaching Hveravellir: A Rewarding Challenge**
The journey to Hveravellir presents a bit of a challenge, as the 2-hour drive on the F-35 from Gullfoss to F-347 is slow-going and often pothole-ridden. However, the effort is well worth it, as you’ll gain a much greater appreciation for the vastness and raw beauty of Iceland’s interior, an area that few travelers ever experience.
If you wish to extend your stay in this remarkable area, you’ll find a lodge and some camping sites.
**Caution and Warnings: Safety First in the Highlands**
The Icelandic highlands represent a unique and challenging environment. Support and resources are more limited than in other parts of Iceland. Keep these important points in mind when traveling in this area:
* **4WD Vehicle Required:** You absolutely must have a 4WD vehicle that is specifically rated for highland driving. Consult with your rental car company to ensure your vehicle is suitable. There are steep fines for driving non-4WD vehicles on F-roads, and cameras are used in some sections to enforce this rule.
* **Stay on Marked Roads:** It is crucial to stay on the marked roads. Off-road driving is strictly prohibited in Iceland and carries hefty fines.
* **Road Conditions:** Be prepared for bumpy and slow-going roads, with occasional river crossings depending on your route.
* **National Park Regulations:** Most of the areas mentioned above are located within National Parks. Follow all marked paths when hiking and camp only in designated camping areas.
* **Essential Supplies:** Always bring extra food and water with you, as these resources are not readily available in the highlands.
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