Cycling In Sri Lanka All You Need To Know

Weather & Seasons

Determining the best time to embark on a cycling adventure in Sri Lanka can be a delightful puzzle. While the island nation boasts year-round appeal, the month of November stands out as potentially the least favorable time, especially if you’re looking for reliably dry conditions across the island. During November, many regions experience periods of intense rainfall, which can certainly dampen the spirits of even the most intrepid cyclist.

However, what truly sets Sri Lanka apart is its remarkable diversity of microclimates. Thanks to its unique geographical features, the island offers a captivating mosaic of weather patterns, ensuring that there’s almost always a suitable location for cycling, regardless of the time of year. This meteorological variety adds an element of spontaneity and flexibility to your travel plans, allowing you to tailor your itinerary to the most appealing weather conditions.

Cyclists planning their trip should be prepared for warm temperatures, particularly if their journey includes coastal regions or the flat interior. In these areas, daytime temperatures consistently hover around at least 28 degrees Celsius (82 degrees Fahrenheit). It’s crucial to pack light, breathable clothing and stay hydrated throughout your rides to ensure comfort and well-being in the tropical heat.

Venturing into the central highlands, home to destinations such as Nuwara Eliya, Ella, Hatton, and the revered Adam’s Peak, introduces a new element to the weather equation. These mountainous regions are subject to rainfall throughout the year, though the precipitation is typically sporadic rather than constant. Travelers visiting these areas can anticipate a mix of sunny spells and brief showers, which can add a refreshing touch to their cycling experience. Planning for both wet and dry conditions is highly advisable, including packing rain gear and ensuring your bicycle is equipped with appropriate tires and fenders.

The central dry zone, encompassing culturally significant sites such as Sigiriya, Dambulla, Polonnaruwa, and Anuradhapura, exhibits a contrasting climate pattern. This region experiences its most substantial rainfall during the months of October and November, while the rest of the year enjoys relatively dry conditions. April and May mark the hottest period in this area, with average high temperatures reaching 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit). The historic city of Kandy, the country’s second-largest, and its surrounding lower hills, share this same weather profile.

The coastal stretch encompassing Galle and the adjacent beaches (Hambantota, Hikkaduwa, Unawatuna, and Mirissa) exhibits a remarkably consistent climate. The average high temperatures throughout the year fluctuate by only a couple of degrees Celsius, ranging from 28 degrees Celsius (82 degrees Fahrenheit) to 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit). However, this region experiences significant rainfall during September to November and again in April and May. Throughout the year, cyclists can expect brief but intense downpours as the atmospheric pressure builds, providing temporary relief from the heat before the sun reappears.

Month	Optimal Cycling Areas
January	Dry zone, Central Mountains, East Coast, Southwest Coast
February	Dry zone, Central Mountains, East Coast, Galle/Southwest
March	Mountains, Galle/Southwest, Southeast
April	Mountains, Southeast
May	Mountains, Southeast
June	Dry zone, Mountains, Galle/Southwest
July	Dry zone, Mountains, Galle/Southwest
August	Dry zone, Mountains, Galle/Southwest
September	Dry zone, Mountains, Galle/Southwest
October	East, Northeast Coast
November	Wet all year round
December	Dry zone (closer to Kandy), Mountains, Galle/Southwest

Roads & Traffic Conditions

Individuals who have explored Sri Lanka via conventional vehicle-based tours may express surprise or even concern upon learning of your intention to cycle the island. While the main highways of Sri Lanka are indeed characterized by heavy traffic and drivers who might not always exhibit the utmost courtesy, this paints an incomplete picture of the country’s road network.

Venture off these primary arteries, and you’ll discover an extensive labyrinth of secondary roads, minor routes, trails, and paths that weave across the landscape. Sri Lanka’s rich history as a producer of tea has left a lasting legacy in its infrastructure. The need to transport tea leaves efficiently has resulted in a widespread network of roads, and the railway system serves as a crucial and heavily utilized mode of conveyance.

These less-traveled minor roads are generally narrow, experiencing only light vehicle usage. They aren’t typically smooth enough to accommodate high-speed vehicular travel. What sets these roads apart is the inherent understanding and respect shared among all users. Drivers are mindful of the presence of pedestrians, children, animals, and cyclists, exercising caution and consideration as they navigate these shared spaces. In fact, the most common vehicle you are likely to encounter on these roads is the iconic tuk-tuk, also known as a three-wheeler or motorized rickshaw, which typically travels at a leisurely pace.

Within the dry, central region surrounding Sigiriya and Dambulla, cyclists will find an abundance of exceptionally pleasant, hard-packed dirt roads. These routes offer peaceful cycling experiences, often providing opportunities to observe local wildlife, including majestic peacocks, playful monkeys, vibrant kingfishers, and elusive mongooses. The serenity and natural beauty of these paths make for truly memorable rides.

Cycling through Sri Lanka’s lush tea plantations is an experience that will captivate your senses. The winding roads add a touch of excitement, while the panoramic views are simply breathtaking. You’ll often see tea pickers working diligently in the plantations, their soft chatter adding to the idyllic atmosphere. The landscape is dotted with charming colonial-era buildings, many of which are integral parts of the plantation estates.

Topography

The rolling hills of Sri Lanka’s tea country offer a visually stunning cycling experience, but it’s essential to understand the implications of elevation. The only truly flat regions in Sri Lanka are confined to the coastal areas and the central dry zone near Sigiriya. Therefore, cycling in virtually any other part of Sri Lanka will involve a significant amount of uphill and downhill riding.

However, there is good news for cyclists concerned about challenging climbs. The roads in Sri Lanka were primarily constructed during an era when vehicles were significantly less powerful than they are today. As a result, the gradients on the roads are generally designed to allow cyclists to maintain a comfortable rhythm and pace. While some exceptionally steep sections do exist, these are relatively rare and typically short in duration. For the most part, sustained climbs average well under 10% gradient.

Climbs can extend for 15 to 25 kilometers at a time, offering brief respites at intervals where the road briefly flattens. Even better news awaits those who enjoy exhilarating descents. Downhill stretches can be just as long, providing ample opportunities to enjoy the scenery and feel the wind in your hair. If you’re equipped with a well-maintained bicycle featuring hydraulic disc brakes and high-quality tires, you can thoroughly relish these descents. For cyclists who prefer a more cautious approach, the descents are generally not so steep as to push you beyond your comfort zone.

Engaging a skilled and experienced tour operator can prove invaluable in tailoring your cycling route to your specific preferences. A knowledgeable operator can create an itinerary that maximizes your enjoyment of uphill, downhill, and flat sections. They can also incorporate train or vehicle transportation to navigate some of the more demanding climbs, allowing you to conserve energy and fully appreciate the remaining riding.

Hotels & Accommodation

Sri Lanka has gained recognition for its charming small-scale villas and tea plantation bungalow properties. These accommodations are typically located in the heart of the tea-growing regions, conveniently close to popular attractions such as Nuwara Eliya, Kandy, and Hatton. They can also be found in the areas just outside Galle, both along the coast and inland.

These properties are usually staffed by a caretaker, with additional staff brought in to cater to the needs of guests upon arrival. Staying at one of these properties can be a truly special experience, offering a unique glimpse into Sri Lankan culture and hospitality. While they may not be the most budget-friendly option, the experience they provide is often unparalleled and highly recommended. The primary challenge for cyclists is the strategic placement and location of these properties. While it’s usually possible to incorporate one or two of these distinctive accommodations into a cycling tour, town-based hotels tend to be more common due to logistical considerations.

The more affordable town-based hotels may still be in the early stages of developing their service standards and hospitality practices. For the best sleep quality, service, and overall comfort, it’s advisable to opt for well-established properties, typically those rated as 4 or 5 stars.

One particularly favored option is the Jetwing chain of properties. This locally owned chain is committed to sustainable building and operating practices and has created some truly beautiful hotels and resorts. There are many other excellent lodging choices available, but the greatest challenge in planning a cycling tour is securing availability in these top-tier properties. Booking well in advance is therefore strongly recommended.

Food

Sri Lanka boasts a cuisine that is both distinct and captivating. While it may initially draw comparisons to Indian cuisine due to the presence of shared dishes like dahl, Sri Lankan food tends to be lighter and more nuanced. The food served at roadside curry shops catering to locals can be quite spicy, but establishments that cater to both affluent Sri Lankans and foreign visitors often offer a more controlled level of spiciness, allowing you to add your own chili to suit your taste.

Over the years, we’ve developed a fondness for certain standout Sri Lankan dishes:

• Stewed, young jackfruit curry, a flavorful and hearty vegetarian option.
• Eggplant prepared in a variety of delicious ways, showcasing the versatility of this humble vegetable.
• Beetroot curry, a vibrant and subtly sweet dish that adds a pop of color to any meal.
• Egg Hoppers, a unique Sri Lankan specialty consisting of a rice pancake shaped into a bowl with an egg fried at the bottom, topped with fried onions and other savory ingredients.

It’s worth noting that finding food outside of hotels in the evenings can sometimes be challenging, as most locals prefer to dine at home. As a result, meals are often planned within the hotels, typically in the form of a buffet. These buffets usually feature a diverse selection of Sri Lankan curries, rice, flatbreads, and salads, along with a “western” section to cater to international tastes. The food is consistently good, but you may occasionally feel that you’re missing out on a more authentic local experience. For this reason, when visiting more densely populated areas, it’s worth seeking out some more adventurous, locally-owned restaurants.

During our cycling days, we often opt for simpler meals, such as rice and curry with limited variety, or samosas, which are undeniably delicious but can become a bit monotonous after a while. Thankfully, the abundance of fresh fruit available throughout the country more than compensates for any lack of variety in our lunches. The wide array of fruits provides a refreshing and healthy source of energy to sustain us throughout the day.