When the Midnight Sun shines, Ranua locals grab their buckets, put on their boots, and hit the swamps in search of an elusive Arctic delicacy. Every July—for just three weeks—this remote part of Finnish Lapland succumbs to cloudberry fever, when long days are spent picking, visiting fruit markets, and feasting on the luscious berries. This is Finland’s self-defined ‘cloudberry capital’, and visitors can join in the fun.
## The Alluring Berries of the Swamp: An Exploration of Lapland’s Golden Fruit
Like a hesitant heron navigating unfamiliar territory, I find myself cautiously wading through the soft, yielding expanse of a swamp. This particular swamp lies on the outer edges of Ranua, a place renowned for its natural beauty. My hands are occupied – one clutching a trusty bucket, ready to receive nature’s bounty, while the other is engaged in a frantic battle against the swarms of mosquitoes. These persistent insects seem to view anyone foolish enough to venture into their domain in the heart of midsummer as a walking, talking feast.
With each step, I am acutely aware of the potential for misjudgment. One wrong move, a single misplaced foot, and I feel as though I could easily sink into the depths of the bog, disappearing into its murky embrace. To avoid such a fate, I’m diligently mastering a delicate technique – a rhythmic hopping between the numerous clumps of moss that thoughtfully present themselves like stepping stones across this watery landscape. It’s a pleasantly cool July morning, a welcome respite from the potential heat, and we find ourselves in a part of the world that, during this time of year, is bathed in the ethereal glow of near 24-hour daylight. The sun barely dips below the horizon, painting the sky with hues of twilight for hours on end.
As is characteristic of much of Lapland, the terrain here appears to stretch out endlessly, a seemingly vast and impenetrable wilderness. Only a thin, unwavering line of dark conifer trees provides any sense of direction or orientation in this sprawling landscape. It would be remarkably easy to become disoriented and completely lost within these seemingly endless swamps, a domain rich with ripening cloudberries and the delicate, silky heads of cottongrass. However, thankfully, I am under the expert guidance of a local cloudberry forager, a woman named Riikka, who knows these lands like the back of her hand.
It is, apparently, quite normal for the people of Ranua to embark on these long, adventurous marches, often lasting for hours and covering many miles, day after day, all in pursuit of these precious berries during their fleeting season. In fact, they seem to derive immense pleasure from maximizing their time spent immersed in the great outdoors, especially after enduring the long, bitterly cold winters that grip this region for much of the year. They eagerly seize opportunities like cloudberry foraging, approaching them with a sun-starved urgency, as if to make up for lost time under the warm embrace of the summer sun.
To truly pick cloudberries like a seasoned professional, I quickly come to realize that there are several essential things to keep in mind. Of course, the first and most fundamental challenge lies in actually finding the elusive berries themselves. The roads in this area are long, often lonely, and heavily bordered by dense forests. To an outsider unfamiliar with the landscape, they can all appear remarkably similar, making navigation a genuine challenge. It is a proper wilderness, make no mistake. You are just as likely to encounter a majestic reindeer crossing the road as you are to see another car, highlighting the untamed nature of this region.
However, the very remoteness of Ranua is no obstacle whatsoever to the dedicated individuals who travel from all corners of the globe to pick these highly sought-after berries in July. They come to sell them at the local cloudberry exchange, a hub of activity during the season, or to buy them, eager to experience the unique flavor of this Lapland delicacy. The tourist office in Ranua is quite helpful, providing a map that pinpointing the most promising cloudberry hotspots. This is invaluable information should you feel adventurous enough to venture out on your own in pursuit of these golden gems.
Once you’ve successfully managed to locate a suitable swamp, the next step involves developing a knack for spotting the berries amidst the dense foliage. This begins with paying close attention to their color. “The red ones aren’t ripe yet,” Riikka gently informs me as I instinctively reach for a vibrant scarlet berry. Contrary to what one might logically expect, cloudberries actually become paler in color the riper they become, eventually transitioning to a delicate, pale, peachy hue that signals their readiness for picking. Each stalk produces only a single berry, making the hunt all the more challenging and rewarding.
The equipment required for a successful cloudberry hunt is surprisingly minimal. All you really need is a bucket or two to collect your bounty, a sturdy pair of boots to protect your feet from the damp terrain, a sunhat (preferably one equipped with anti-bug netting to shield you from the relentless mosquitoes), and a generous supply of insect repellent to keep those pesky insects at bay. Perhaps most importantly, you need a good dose of stamina, as the hunt can be physically demanding.
However, once you settle into the slow, almost meditative rhythm of foraging for these hard-to-find cloudberries, you begin to understand why the locals are so utterly captivated by this activity. Here, amidst the tranquil swamps and beneath the expansive, wide-open skies, you have the rare opportunity to completely switch off from the constant demands and distractions of modern-day life. You can truly escape the incessant buzz of technology and reconnect with the natural world in a profound and meaningful way.
## Returning to the Embrace of Nature
While Lapland is typically associated with images of pristine snowscapes, majestic reindeer, and the mesmerizing dance of the Northern Lights, it becomes abundantly clear that this region is just as enchanting and captivating during the summer months as it is during the winter. The long, seemingly endless days provide the perfect conditions for embarking on epic foraging expeditions. These adventures might involve delightful picnics in secluded woodland glades, gathering around crackling campfires under the open sky, and sometimes even the unforgettable experience of sleeping under the stars, lulled to sleep by the sounds of nature.
The Finns, as a nation, deeply cherish their solitary, head-clearing pursuits, especially in a place like Lapland, where houses are often spaced miles apart, fostering a sense of solitude and connection with the vast landscape. The act of picking berries is often performed in silence, allowing ample time for introspection and reflection. After a few hours of the repetitive, yet strangely soothing, task of hunting for berries, with no other distractions than the occasional bird flitting among the towering pines, I begin to truly appreciate the meditative benefits of this activity. If you are seeking a mindful activity that allows you to be present in the moment, then cloudberry foraging is undoubtedly it.
Foraging in this region is as much about reconnecting with the natural world as it is about filling buckets with the precious cloudberries. With approximately 60% of the region consisting of swampland, there is an abundance of terrain to explore and roam. “I love this time of year,” exclaims Rikka, her face radiant with health and an undeniable sense of happiness. “It’s not just about the berries, but also about the nature, the opportunity for exercise, and the invigorating fresh air.”
It’s now 10 pm, and as we stand with our buckets full and the sun begins its slow descent, casting a warm golden glow over a pristine lake just beyond the edge of the swamps, I can truly understand what she means. The beauty and tranquility of this place are simply breathtaking.
## The Enigmatic Wonder Berry
After the last of the winter snow finally melts away, the cloudberries – known locally as *hilla* in Ranua, and as *lakka* in other regions – begin to bloom in June, their delicate flowers heralding the arrival of summer. They then ripen approximately six weeks later, transforming into the golden berries that are so eagerly sought after. For the Finns, the appearance of cloudberries signifies the arrival of summer, a time of brighter, lighter days, and a welcome escape from the long darkness of winter.
If you were to bite into one of these berries, you might be surprised by its unique flavor profile. Although not as intensely sweet as you might expect, they possess a distinct tart, peachy flavor that is uniquely their own. Finns adore eating them fresh, savoring their natural goodness, but they also incorporate them into a wide variety of culinary creations, baking them into delectable cakes and pies, or transforming them into flavorful jams, jellies, and even potent liquors.
While cloudberries can be found in other parts of Scandinavian Lapland, as well as in Russia and Canada, the Finns hold them in particularly high regard, treating them with unrivaled reverence and often referring to them as ‘Lappish gold,’ a testament to their value and importance. The only other berry that they hold in such high esteem is the *mesimarja* (Arctic raspberry), a smaller, even more elusive treasure that is approximately three times smaller than the cloudberry and typically grows near lakes and rivers. These are even harder to find, making them a truly prized delicacy.
Hailed as something of a wonder berry, the health benefits of cloudberries are truly impressive. A single berry contains more vitamin C than an entire orange, and it is packed with powerful antioxidants that protect the body against damage. However, the Finns have cherished these berries long before they achieved superfood status, appreciating them for their unique flavor and cultural significance.
## Ranua’s Dedicated Cloudberry Professor
To truly understand the profound influence that cloudberries exert on the lives of the local community each July, you need to pay a visit to the vibrant Ranua farmer’s market. Here, you’ll have the opportunity to meet Taisto Illikainen, Ranua’s very own ‘cloudberry professor,’ a man who has dedicated his life to the business of buying, selling, and officially fixing the market rate of cloudberries locally for the past 50 years. During colder years, when cloudberries are more scarce due to unfavorable weather conditions, the price is understandably considerably higher, reflecting the increased demand and limited supply.
“Cloudberries are not just our food, they are also deeply ingrained in our culture, and they bring much-needed work to the community,” admits Taisto, as he diligently sets about weighing the freshly picked berries and pouring them into containers, preparing them to be sold to eager customers. “It’s not just locals who pick them. We have visitors from Estonia, Sweden, Russia, Poland, and even as far away as Thailand.”
Some people even turn their cloudberry picking endeavors into a working holiday, he continues. “If they are good pickers, it can be a very profitable venture. I once knew a man who picked an astonishing 220 pounds in a single day.”
Then, of course, there are the visitors to the market who come solely to buy the berries, eager to experience their unique flavor. Some Finns will drive all the way from Helsinki, a journey of 500 miles, just to pick up a supply of cloudberries and then drive straight back home. “It’s crazy,” he chuckles, shaking his head in amusement at the lengths people will go to for these golden berries.
## The Thrill of Cloudberry Fever
“Ranua gets cloudberry fever in July,” laughs Riikka, her eyes twinkling with amusement. It all starts with the appearance of the very first ripe berry, igniting a sense of excitement and anticipation throughout the community. This excitement climaxes with the annual cloudberry festival in early August, a celebration of all things cloudberry. The festival features communal picnics, where cloudberries are prominently featured on many menus throughout the town, and even fun-filled cloudberry competitions.
The reason that cloudberries are so highly prized is perhaps due to the fact that finding them involves more than a little bit of luck. They cannot be grown commercially, making them a truly wild and precious resource. Locals can be notoriously secretive about the location of their hidden patches, guarding their knowledge jealously. “I’ve walked for miles along fences, only to discover that the best cloudberries are hidden behind them, obscured from view,” says Riikka, highlighting the challenges of finding these elusive berries.
Local restaurants, cafes, and bakeries eagerly feature cloudberries on their menus during the season, sprinkling them on fresh salads, whipping them up into extraordinary cakes, and even using them as toppings on pizzas, showcasing their culinary versatility. Near the entrance to the town’s renowned Arctic zoo, you’ll find the distillery Ranua-Revontuli, the perfect place to pick up a lasting taste of cloudberries to take home with you in the form of cloudberry wine.
Meanwhile, behind the closed timber doors of homes all over town, Ranua’s residents are diligently transforming their cloudberry hoards into rich, flavorful compotes that pair perfectly with the other local specialty: *leipäjuusto*, a unique ‘squeaky cheese’ made from fresh cow’s milk. Nothing is wasted; the leaves and seeds of the cloudberry plant are even ingeniously turned into teas, bread, and, in some instances, cosmetics, demonstrating the resourcefulness and ingenuity of the local people.
“When it’s freezing outside in winter, cloudberries offer a delightful taste of summer,” says Riikka, as we head out on one last foraging trip, determined to make the most of the remaining daylight. “When you eat them then, it’s as if you are transported back to those sunny summer days out in the swamps, a reminder of warmer times.”
I’d like to stop and savor a berry, allowing myself to be transported back to those summer days, to see if I can truly experience the same feeling, but there are still many berries to pick, and I have a half-empty bucket with my name on it, beckoning me to continue the hunt.
## Essential Cloudberry Season Travel Tips
The closest airport to Ranua is located in Rovaniemi, the capital of Lapland, approximately an hour’s drive (50 miles) to the north. It’s situated right on the Arctic Circle, adding to its allure. To efficiently get from point A to point B in this region, you’ll really need to either hire a knowledgeable local guide or rent a car of your own. The distances are vast, and the swamps stretch out far and wide, making independent travel a challenge. Fortunately, car rentals are readily available at the airport, providing you with the freedom to explore at your own pace.
Attractive and spacious lodge-style accommodation is available at the centrally located Holiday Village Gulo Gulo, offering a comfortable and convenient base for your cloudberry adventures.
Cloudberry picking itself is free of charge, allowing you to enjoy this natural bounty without any financial burden. However, it is essential to be mindful of the fact that you are venturing into a wilderness environment. Be sure to take along the map provided by the tourist office and familiarize yourself with any local restrictions that may be in place to protect the environment. The exact dates of the cloudberry season can vary slightly each year, depending on the weather conditions, but they typically fall in mid- to late July.
While you should definitely go for the cloudberries, don’t limit yourself there. Lapland has a plethora of other activities and experiences to offer during the summer season, ensuring a truly memorable trip.
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