How many cities can you name that sit along a fjord, in the mountains, surrounded by islands? If you’ve been to Bergen, your answer is probably one. It’s a microcosm of all of Norway’s best scenery with a dash of both traditional and contemporary culture. The city, though world-class, has humble, unpretentious roots—and the only way to do it is like a local.
Once the former capital of Norway, Bergen presents a distinctly different perspective compared to Oslo, yet retains the vibrant metropolitan atmosphere befitting the country’s second-largest city. The rhythm of life here is noticeably more relaxed, the surrounding natural landscapes are more immediate and imposing, and while its location is farther north, the climate remains quite similar to Oslo, albeit with a slightly higher propensity for rainfall. To truly experience this world-class city, venturing beyond the typical tourist trails is key. Embrace the local way of life and discover the hidden gems that Bergen has to offer.
## History, Arts & Culture
Many tourists limit their visit to Bryggen, the iconic collection of colorful houses lining the harbor, instantly recognizable from Bergen’s postcards. They capture a few photographs and consider their visit complete. However, a truly immersive experience begins at this UNESCO World Heritage Site, and then extends beyond the immediate facade. Venture into the network of small, narrow streets nestled behind the old merchant houses, where a different world unfolds. Seek out the trailhead marked Skredderdalen (identifiable by a building displaying “Bergens Vandverk 1914”), and embark on a rewarding hike. While many visitors opt for the popular ascent of Mt. Fløyen, this route offers a more authentic local experience. It leads to Fløyvarden, a vantage point providing breathtaking panoramic views. From there, you can choose to descend via the well-trodden path of Fløyen or opt for the more adventurous and affectionately named “tippe tue,” a smaller, less direct trail, offering a unique perspective on the landscape.
Alternatively, starting again from Bryggen, ascend the mountainside by following the small, winding streets towards Sandviksbatteriet. Beyond the consistently impressive views that Bergen generously offers, this path unveils a small, secluded cabin, once an integral part of a fortress system. Upon reaching this historical site, take the time to search for remnants from World War II, whispering tales of a bygone era.
Returning to the heart of the city, pay close attention to the vibrant street art scene; Bergen is undoubtedly the Norwegian capital of this modern artistic movement. The most prominent and easily spotted works are likely those of Dolk, a renowned artist hailing from Bergen. In Sentralbadet, discover a legal graffiti wall, a dynamic canvas that continuously evolves with fresh expressions of creativity.
When it comes to museums, art galleries, and entertainment venues, Bergen boasts an extensive and impressive array of options. Visit Grieg Hall to witness a captivating performance by the Bergen Philharmonic Orchestra, or immerse yourself in the theatrical world at Den Nationale Scene, Bergen’s premier theatre, where the legendary Ibsen once served as an in-house playwright. For a more unconventional museum experience, explore the Bryggens Museum, a hidden gem compared to the more frequented Hanseatic Museum. This museum offers a fascinating insight into the history of Bergen, Norway, and human civilization. For live music enthusiasts, Café Opera and Madam Felle host regular performances every weekend, with the latter specializing in the soulful sounds of jazz. While downtown Bergen undoubtedly serves as the city’s central hub, the Møhlenpris neighborhood, situated near the university, is an emerging district brimming with enticing cafés and restaurants, making it a worthwhile destination for exploration.
## Food, Drinks & Nightlife
The traditional Norwegian diet, once heavily reliant on dried and salted fish, may not have been particularly noteworthy. However, contemporary Norwegian cuisine has undergone a remarkable transformation. New Nordic cuisine has swept across the country, offering a diverse and exciting culinary landscape. In Bergen, the dining options are virtually limitless, encompassing both international flavors and innovative interpretations of local ingredients. It’s essential to remember that Bergen is a vibrant university town, where 17,000 students from around the globe contribute to the city’s dynamic atmosphere and culinary scene daily.
Coffee holds a special place in the hearts of Bergen’s locals. Pay a visit to one of Bergen’s esteemed coffee houses, such as Kaffebrenneri, Blom, or Kaffemisjonen, and savor a simple yet perfectly crafted cup of coffee. If you find yourself wandering around Bryggen and are captivated by a delightful aroma, it’s undoubtedly emanating from Baker Brun. Be sure to grab a *skillingsboller* for your journey, a traditional Norwegian pastry akin to a cinnamon roll but with a less sticky texture.
For more substantial meals, your choice will depend on your travel style and budget. Stop by harbor-adjacent Fjellskål Fisk & Skalldyr and browse the enticing selection of fish, cheeses, jams, and local specialties. They also offer sandwiches, wraps, and convenient takeaway options. Consider taking your meal to the university-adjacent Nygårdspark for a delightful picnic. Alternatively, for an exceptional Nordic and “New Nordic” dining experience, indulge in the culinary creations of the highly acclaimed Lysverket, Colonialen, or Enhjorningen, one of the oldest and most historically significant restaurants in the city.
And now, let’s move on to the drinks. Altona Vinbar holds the distinction of being the oldest tavern in the city, dating back to the 1600s, while Don Pippo boasts a remarkable selection of wines. The craft beer movement in Norway has been a bit slow to gain momentum, but it’s steadily catching on. Bergenhus Bryggeri holds the title of being the first brewery in Bergen, and Henrik Øl og Vinstove offers an extensive array of beers on tap. Be aware that Norway has notoriously high alcohol prices, so if you’re traveling on a tight budget, consider purchasing your drinks from corner shops and supermarkets. Before you depart, be sure to sample aquavit, a strong Scandinavian spirit that is readily available in most bars.
Remember that Norwegians tend to dine and socialize late into the night, particularly during the summer months when the midnight sun graces the sky. If you venture into a bar at 11 pm and find it seemingly empty, rest assured that patrons will soon arrive. Furthermore, if you find yourself feeling peckish, tapas restaurants are scattered throughout the city, providing a delicious and convenient way to satiate your appetite.
## The City’s Great Outdoors
Bergen is famously known as the “city of seven mountains,” offering abundant opportunities for hiking and outdoor exploration. While most tourists flock to Mt. Fløyen or Mt. Ulriken, both accessible by funiculars, consider a more adventurous alternative. Take bus no. 12 from Festplassen to Montana, where the local trail begins. This route allows you to ascend Mt. Ulriken the challenging yet rewarding way, without relying on a cable car. Continue along the Vidden Trail, which leads you over to Mt. Fløyen. If time permits, extend your hike to Mt. Rundemannen, allowing you to conquer three of the city’s seven peaks in a single excursion.
For those seeking a more demanding hike, Stoltzekleiven is an excellent choice. This trail consists of nearly 800 stone steps, leading to a 1,000-foot (300-m) elevation gain, rewarding you with breathtaking views of the city and harbor. Originally constructed by Sherpas from Nepal, this trail is more frequented by locals, often seen running to the top (the record stands at approximately seven minutes!). This trail also connects to Fløyen and Ulriken, passing scenic lakes and woodlands. When hiking in Bergen, it’s crucial to dress in layers to accommodate the changing weather conditions.
## Getting Around
Acquiring the Bergen Card is a worthwhile investment, providing complimentary access to the city’s efficient public transportation system. The buses and light rail are user-friendly and navigate the city with ease. Moreover, the vast majority of locals possess a strong command of the English language, facilitating communication. Although perhaps not the most “local” approach, tickets and information can be obtained from the tourist information center located next to Fisketorget in downtown Bergen.
However, given Bergen’s compact size, exploring the city on foot is highly recommended. Wander through the narrow, winding streets, spontaneously venture into that inviting hole-in-the-wall establishment that has captured your attention, and embark on that enticing trail that ascends the hillside. Embrace the spirit of a local and immerse yourself in the true essence of Bergen.
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