Camel rides along the dunes, nights spent under the stars in Bedouin tents, villages carved into canyon walls, and ancient kasbahs still standing as fortresses along old trading routes: Morocco’s desert is built for adventure, and this guide illuminates the regional highlights.
East of the bustling cities, stretching far beyond the well-trodden highways and the captivating coastline, Morocco unveils a breathtaking transformation. The landscape morphs into a stunning tapestry of desert expanses, majestic mountains that pierce the sky, verdant valleys teeming with life, and quaint, traditional villages, sometimes all visible within a single, unforgettable panoramic vista.
The starting point of your Moroccan adventure, whether in the northern city of Fes, steeped in history and culture, or further south in the vibrant and enchanting Marrakesh, will largely depend on the specifics of your carefully planned itinerary. To truly immerse yourself in the beauty and wonder of this region, a solid week, or even more, is highly recommended. This allows ample time to savor the journey between these two ancient bastions of Moroccan history, absorbing their unique character and charm.
Furthermore, it’s important to remember that the towering dunes of the Sahara Desert aren’t exactly easy to climb, presenting a physical challenge that requires time and effort. Camels, those iconic symbols of the desert, can only traverse the sandy terrain at a certain pace, so patience is key. And perhaps most importantly, it won’t be easy tearing yourself away from the mesmerizing, breathtaking sunrise view from the comfort of your Bedouin tent, a moment of serenity and awe that deserves to be fully appreciated.
Before we delve into the captivating allure of the desert, it’s crucial to understand the prominent role that mountain ranges play in shaping the Moroccan landscape. There are three main Atlas mountain chains that dramatically punctuate the Moroccan terrain, each possessing its own unique characteristics and appeal: the Middle Atlas, the High Atlas, and the Anti-Atlas.
The Middle Atlas range, as its name suggests, is the northernmost of the three, and many travelers choose to commence their Moroccan adventure here, journeying generally southward from the historic city of Fes. This allows for a gradual transition from the urban environment to the rugged beauty of the mountains and eventually, the captivating desert landscape.
## Middle Atlas to the Desert: Erfoud, Merzouga & the Sahara
**(Image of Erg Chebbi sand dunes in the Sahara Desert near Merzouga with caption: Erg Chebbi sand dunes in the Sahara Desert near Merzouga)**
The Middle Atlas region is renowned for its incredible biodiversity, a testament to the diverse ecosystems that thrive within its boundaries. A prime example of this ecological richness is Ifrane National Park, a protected area that showcases the region’s natural beauty. Huge swaths of cedar forest dominate the mountainsides, creating a lush and verdant environment. These majestic trees provide shelter and refuge for families of Barbary macaque monkeys, adding a touch of wildlife charm to the landscape.
Though these playful primates are masters of camouflage, they don’t always hide too well. Keep an eye out as you traverse the roads, as you may spot them frolicking on the side of the road, adding an unexpected element of surprise to your journey.
As you continue your southward trek, the scenery will continue to evolve and captivate. You’ll traverse the scenic Tizi-n-Talremt pass, a winding mountain road that offers stunning panoramic views. Soon, you’ll descend into the breathtaking Ziz Valley, a verdant oasis that stretches as far as the eye can see.
And yes, those are indeed palm trees you’re seeing! Towering above the landscape, these iconic trees create a striking contrast to the arid surroundings. Along the road, you’ll also notice fortified houses, known as “ksars.” These structures were strategically built to protect valuable commodities such as gold, salt, and spices, back in the days when these precious items served as essential currencies.
As you continue your journey, you may also notice the subtle beginnings of sand dunes, hinting at the desert landscape that lies ahead. However, don’t be tempted to stop just yet – the dunes will become much grander and more awe-inspiring as you approach your final destination.
Before long, you’ll arrive in Erfoud, a lively and bustling market town that serves as a gateway to the Sahara Desert. Surprisingly, Erfoud is also known for its abundance of fossils. As such, the obvious souvenir to acquire here is anything artisan-crafted from one of the local collectives. Whether it’s a delicate fossil pendant, a beautifully “fossilized” bowl, or even an impressive 800-lb slab of sandstone, you’ll find a unique treasure to take home. Just be aware that trilobites the size of your head will require quite the shipping arrangements!
Upon leaving the vibrant town of Erfoud, set your course towards the small, charming village of Merzouga. Make sure your camera is ready, as you’ll soon be greeted by the sight of the most popular dunes of the Sahara Desert, and some of Morocco’s tallest (though not as wide as others). These iconic dunes are known as the Erg Chebbi, and this mesmerizing sea of sand stretches across an impressive 13 square miles.
Their formation is constantly changing, as sand dunes naturally do, sculpted by the wind and the passage of time. Their color also varies depending on the time of day and the angle of the sun. To capture the most stunning photographs, aim to arrive at sunrise or sunset, when the dunes are bathed in a warm, golden light.
Consider taking the Erg Shibi tour for an unforgettable experience. You can even rent a sandboard to experience the thrill of racing down the dunes at exhilarating downhill speeds of up to 40mph.
While Merzouga offers a range of hotels for accommodation, consider indulging in the unique experience of spending the night in a traditional Bedouin tent. Imagine yourself savoring a delicious dinner around a crackling campfire, listening to enchanting Berber music performed by local musicians. This offers an immersive glimpse into the local culture and traditions, as some areas of Morocco have Berber roots, while others are Arab. To truly seal the deal, you’ll have to embark on a memorable camel ride to reach your lodging, a quintessential desert experience that will stay with you forever.
## Todra Gorge, Dades Valley, and Ouarzazate
**(Image of the Valley of the Ouarzazate River with caption: Valley of the Ouarzazate River)**
Khamleya (also frequently spelled Khamlia) is a very-nearby traditional Saharan village. Take some time to stroll around its charming streets, soak in the authentic atmosphere, and perhaps even enjoy the captivating traditional music. Alternatively, consider venturing to the larger market town of Rissani. Try to align your itinerary with a “market day” to witness the vibrant local trade and culture. And be sure to check out the lively donkey parking lot, a unique spectacle that will leave you amused.
Alternatively, immerse yourself straight back into the heart of nature. Though you’re surrounded by the desert landscape, you’ll also encounter buttes, mesas, and plateaus that evoke a sense of the American Southwest, reminiscent of the “Arizonian” landscape. Furthermore, you’ll discover areas that seem more riparian, where the presence of riverbeds has transformed what would otherwise be sandy, dry expanses into lush, green river oases.
This transformation is all thanks to the life-giving Todra river, which has gracefully carved its way through the red limestone. This natural process has resulted in the creation of the magnificent Todra Gorge, a breathtaking canyon that plunges to a staggering depth of 984 feet. The shallow river that flows through the gorge is not only visually appealing but also offers a refreshing opportunity to wade through its cool waters.
Back in civilization, the next common stop on your journey is Ouarzazate. This city is a renowned Hollywood hotspot, serving as the backdrop for a multitude of major blockbusters, including iconic films such as *Gladiator*, *Black Hawk Down*, *American Sniper*, and even *Game of Thrones*.
Adding to the city’s allure, you can view Mount Toubkal, coming in at 13,671 feet, the highest peak in Morocco’s highest range. As you navigate the winding mountain roads, such as N9, that lead out of the city, you’ll be surrounded by small Berber villages, each with its own unique charm and character. The traditional mud-brick homes and farms that dot the landscape are worth a quick walk through if your time permits.
## The High Atlas: Zagora, Kasbah Telouet, and the Ounila Valley
**(Image of Ounila Valley, Kasbah Telouet in the distance with caption: Ounila Valley, Kasbah Telouet in the distance)**
You’re now somewhere near the tip-top of the Tizi-n-Talremt pass in the High Atlas. The Draa River makes this area surprisingly lush, and date palmeries abound here. If you see a date stall, definitely stop—there will be loads of other fruits and veggies, too. Soon you’ll be in Zagora, a small-yet-grand city. The wide, vast Tinfou sand dunes can be found near the edge of town; though they’re not nearly as tall as the dunes around Merzouga, they absolutely cover the landscape, and they’re much easier to climb.
Not far away is the bizarre Kasbah Telouet, widely considered one of the most extraordinary sights of the Atlas. Though it was only built in the 1860s—which is nothing compared to the kasbahs built 800 years ago—it’s crumbling into the dark red earth, a fascinating remnant of the style and melodrama of Moroccan political government and power still within living memory. It’s incredibly remote, hugging the line between absolute grandeur and complete ruin: The decorated salon walls are often roofless and open to the elements.
Back on the road, get on P1506. You’re now in the Ounila Valley, which once served as the main route over the Atlas before the French constructed the Tizi-n-Talremt pass. It’s hard to believe, considering the scree slopes, parched hillsides, and lack of traffic. But now that it’s no longer the main route, it makes for a wonderful two-day walk.
You can meander between crumbling burgundy kasbahs and agadirs, cliff dwellings, terraced orchards, and olive trees, stopping at villages like Anemiter, a 2.5-hour walk from Telouet. It’s one of the best-fortified villages in the country, and from here, there are villages about every three hours. Assako, Tourhat, and Tamdaght are names you should look out for. If you’d prefer not to go on foot, private transport is an option as well—and don’t forget, you can always hire a mule at either end!
## Ait Benhaddou and the Surrounding Region
**(Image of Ait Benhaddou with caption: Ait Benhaddou)**
Tamdaght is worthy of its own point—it has, perhaps, the most authentic Berber feel of all the villages in the area. It’s enveloped inside canyon walls, and its position on the riverbank makes the scenery itself worth the walk, or simply the time. The uncrowded Kasbah Tamdaght may have a few crumbling towers (and a handful of storks’ nests), but that only adds to its old-world mystique, juxtaposing it from its larger neighbor down the road.
After Tamdaght, you’re now only a few miles away from Ait Benhaddou. This is the most famous Kasbah in Morocco, an ancient maze-like fortification unquestionably worthy of its UNESCO World Heritage Site status. This 11th-century ksar held an important position along the trans-Saharan trade route, and its history is still tangible today.
Spend a night in the old town, wander the empty alleys before the crowds come in, climb to the old granary at the top of the hill, and walk the old camel routes that once determined entire economies. Ascend the watchtower to view it all from above, or stay in the thick of it, watching local artists use saffron tea and the sun to create their works. This place is an absolute labyrinth, and for many, simply getting purposefully lost is on the list of things to do.
From here, your Moroccan adventure lands you back in the big city, ready to depart from Marrakech. Or do it all again, south to north—who knows what you’ll find on your way back to Fes?
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