Welcome to Bologna, home of the world’s oldest continually operating university, not one but two “leaning towers,” and some of the best food in Italy. Many tourists overlook this historic city in favor of Italy’s other highlights—but Bologna is a can’t-miss for culinary hounds and anyone who appreciates the artistry of grand Italian churches. Find out what to do, see, and eat below.
## Discovering the Charms of Bologna: A Comprehensive Guide
While the well-trodden tourist paths of Rome, Florence, and Venice often steal the spotlight, the captivating city of Bologna offers a unique and enriching Italian experience. Bologna, a hidden gem, beckons with its majestic redbrick towers that pierce the sky and the graceful, seemingly endless colonnades that define its character. Imagine strolling beneath almost 25 miles of these grand porticos, a distinctive architectural feature that shelters sidewalks and provides a sense of timeless elegance. The heart of Bologna, its meticulously preserved historic center, unfolds in shades of pink and terracotta, creating a visually stunning panorama. It stands as one of the largest historic centers in all of Italy, a testament to the city’s rich past. However, Bologna is far from a static museum piece. It pulses with life as a dynamic and thriving metropolis, home to a million inhabitants and a significant contributor to the country’s economic prosperity. Bologna is a city where history and modernity seamlessly intertwine.
## Planning Your Bolognese Adventure: Crafting the Perfect Itinerary
Embarking on a journey to Bologna requires careful planning to fully appreciate its myriad offerings. While a single day can provide a tantalizing glimpse into the city’s essence, dedicating two or three days will undoubtedly allow for a more profound exploration. Crucially, this extended stay grants ample time to indulge in the region’s renowned culinary delights.
**A Whirlwind 24 Hours in Bologna:**
If your itinerary allows only a single day, seize the opportunity to immerse yourself in the city’s most iconic landmarks. Commence your day with a traditional Italian espresso at the bustling Piazza Maggiore, the city’s central square, before turning your gaze towards the awe-inspiring San Petronio church, a masterpiece of architectural grandeur. Venture into the enchanting narrow alleys of the Quadricentro, a historic district brimming with character and charm. No visit to Bologna is complete without ascending the Asinelli tower, one of the city’s famous leaning Due Torri, to witness breathtaking panoramic views.
For a midday repast, head to the vibrant Mercato delle Erbe, the city market, where you can savor a delicious and affordable lunch amidst the lively atmosphere. Dedicate your afternoon to exploring the artistic treasures housed within the Pinacoteca Nazionale, home to an impressive collection of masterpieces. Alternatively, embark on a pilgrimage to some of Bologna’s magnificent churches, such as the Basilica di San Domenico, a testament to religious artistry. As the sun begins its descent, ensure you reserve ample energy for a gourmet dinner, a celebration of the region’s culinary prowess, and for experiencing the city’s energetic nightlife.
**Unveiling Bologna: A Multi-Day Immersion:**
With a few more days at your disposal, you can delve deeper into the soul of Bologna, unearthing its hidden gems and immersing yourself in its cultural tapestry. Explore the historic halls of the ancient university and its accompanying museums, gaining insights into the city’s intellectual heritage. Expand your artistic horizons with a visit to MAMbo, the Museum of Modern Art of Bologna, and delve into the city’s captivating past at the Museo della Storia, the Museum of the History of Bologna.
### Timing Your Visit: Navigating Bologna’s Seasons
Bologna welcomes visitors throughout the year, each season offering its own unique charm. Unlike some other Italian cities, Bologna does not experience a distinct tourist “high season.” However, the months of March to June and September to October generally offer the most pleasant weather conditions, making them ideal times to visit. July and August can be characterized by intense heat, which may affect your sightseeing plans.
Hotel rates in Bologna are primarily influenced by trade fairs and conferences. The city hosts several major trade fairs annually, during which hotel room rates tend to surge significantly. It is highly recommended to consult the event schedule before planning your visit to secure the most favorable accommodations.
### Reaching Bologna: Your Gateway to Emilia-Romagna
Bologna boasts excellent transportation links, connecting it to numerous cities across Europe and beyond. The Guglielmo Marconi Airport serves as a major transportation hub, welcoming flights from both national carriers and low-cost airlines such as Blu-express, easyJet, Wizz Air, and Ryanair. Travelers from North America can also take advantage of non-stop flights, although these are typically available only during the summer months, with American Airlines offering service from Philadelphia. Furthermore, Bologna’s Stazione Centrale, centrally located in the heart of the city, receives high-speed trains from major Italian cities, including Rome, Milan, and Florence, as well as other destinations throughout Italy.
### Navigating Bologna: Exploring the City with Ease
The heart of Bologna, centered around the Piazza Maggiore, is easily navigable on foot. The city’s compact layout allows visitors to explore the major sights with relative ease. For longer distances, the city’s efficient bus system provides a cost-effective transportation option. City buses, departing from Piazza Maggiore and the train station, offer convenient access to various points of interest. Tickets are priced affordably, with single tickets available for 1.30 Euros and 24-hour passes for 5 Euros. Taxis are readily available, but tend to be relatively expensive, with the meter starting at 4 Euros. It is generally necessary to phone for a taxi rather than hailing one on the street.
### Bologna Passes: Unlocking Savings and Convenience
The digital Bologna Welcome Card and the Card Musei Metropolitani Bologna are tourist discount schemes designed to enhance your visit. The Bologna Welcome Card, priced at 25 Euros, grants free entry to most of the city’s museums, along with various discounts at participating shops and restaurants. The card is valid for one year, allowing for one use per site. The Card Musei Metropolitani Bologna, also priced at 25 Euros, offers even broader coverage, granting free admission to 30 museums and reduced admission to 26 others, also valid for one year. Comparing the two cards online will help you determine which best suits your itinerary. However, it is important to note that the cards are only cost-effective if you plan to visit a significant number of the listed museums.
## Must-See Attractions and Activities: Embracing Bologna’s Essence
At the very core of Bologna lies the expansive and monumental Piazza Maggiore, the quintessential starting point for any exploration of the city. From this central location, the city’s most prominent landmarks are conveniently accessible on foot. Overlooking the piazza is the ornate Palazzo D’Accursio, also known as Palazzo Comunale, which served as Bologna’s city hall until 2008. Within its walls, a labyrinth of frescoed halls and chapels awaits, along with the Municipal Art Collections and the world’s oldest Torah.
Adjacent to the Piazza Maggiore lies the Piazza Nettuno, home to the Fontana di Nettuno (Neptune Fountain), a cherished symbol of the city. Designed in 1566 by a Flemish sculptor known as Giambologna (a name adapted into Italian by the locals), the fountain was initially deemed “indecent” by the Catholic Church. Take a closer look to discern the reasons behind this controversy.
### Basilica di San Petronio and Its Surroundings: A Spiritual and Historical Journey
Dominating the Piazza Maggiore, the Basilica di San Petronio is an immense church dedicated to Bologna’s patron saint, St. Petronius, who served as the city’s bishop from 431 to 450. His remains were reinterred here in the year 2000. Inside, the lavish Cappella Bolognini is adorned with exquisite frescoes by Giovanni da Modena. Nearby, the Museo Civico Archeologico houses one of Italy’s most significant Ancient Egyptian collections, along with precious Etruscan relics unearthed in Emilia.
Adjacent to the Museo Civico Archeologico, the Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio served as the home of Bologna University from 1563 to 1803. Within its walls, the beautiful cedar wood Teatro Anatomico stands as a reminder of the historical practice of dissections of deceased bodies in the pursuit of medical knowledge. Just one block east lies the Museo della Storia di Bologna, housed within the Palazzo Pepoli, a contemporary multimedia showcase that traces the history of Bologna from Etruscan times to the present day.
### Basilica di San Domenico: A Sanctuary of Art and Faith
This magnificent medieval church serves as the final resting place of St. Dominic, the founder of the Dominican order, his tomb a masterpiece of craftsmanship. He rests within a chapel designed by Nicola Pisano, a renowned sculptor of the 13th century, and adorned with frescoes by Guido Reni and other Bolognese painters from the early 1600s.
### Due Torri: Leaning Towers of Bologna
Rising to the east of the Piazza Maggiore, the Due Torri, Bologna’s iconic leaning towers, stand as testaments to the city’s medieval past. Constructed in the 12th century, these towers have become synonymous with Bologna’s skyline. The smaller of the two, the Garisenda, stands at a height of only 162 feet, leaning precariously to the south. The taller tower, the Asinelli, reaches a height of 334 feet and is open to the public. Ascend nearly 500 steps to reach the summit and be rewarded with a panoramic view of the city’s red-tile rooftops.
### The Quadrilatero: A Culinary Paradise
The warren of medieval lanes situated behind Piazza Maggiore, known as the Quadrilatero, is a culinary paradise teeming with the city’s most celebrated gourmet food shops. La Baita (Vecchia Malga) has been offering a phenomenal selection of hams and cheeses since 1969, while AF Tamburini has been selling salsicce (sausages), prosciutti, and mortadella in a shop that has stood in the same location since the 1860s.
Paolo Atti & Figli is the undisputed destination for pasta, an institution since 1900, while Salumeria Simoni serves as a one-stop shop for local produce, most notably the Parma hams that hang from the ceiling. Bologna’s outpost of the global food hall Eataly offers a curated selection of high-quality Italian foods and wines, while the Mercato di Mezzo, located opposite, is a covered market housing small bars and food stands.
### More Amazing Churches: Exploring Bologna’s Spiritual Heritage
Bologna’s captivating Basilica di Santo Stefano is actually a Romanesque complex comprised of seven small churches, chapels, and cloisters. A church has stood on this site since the 5th century, converted from a much older Roman Temple of Isis. San Giacomo Maggiore is another treasure-filled Romanesque beauty built by the Augustinians. Inside, the Cappella Bentivoglio stands as a monument to the 15th-century rulers of Bologna, adorned with faded frescoes by Lorenzo Costa.
### Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna: A Treasure Trove of Emilian Art
The Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna serves as a showcase for the most significant works of Emilian and Bolognese painting from the 14th century to the height of the baroque period, featuring masterpieces by Jacopo di Paolo, Lorenzo Costa, the Carraci brothers, Guido Reni, and many others. The adjacent university campus houses the Musei di Palazzo Poggi, home to a veritable 18th-century cabinet of curiosities, including mildly ghoulish anatomical waxwork models.
### Manifattura della Arti: Where Art Thrives
The “Factory of the Arts,” known as Manifattura della Arti, is an area of former warehouses and factories that has been transformed into an art district, located a 15-minute walk from the heart of Bologna. At its core lies the Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna (MAMbo), which displays its permanent collection of post–World War II Italian art. The complex is also home to the superb collection of works by Bolognese artist Giorgio Morandi, known as the Museo Morandi.
## Choosing Your Accommodation: Where to Stay in Bologna
As is often the case, renting an apartment can significantly reduce your accommodation expenses, particularly for groups or extended stays. Websites such as homeaway.com and airbnb.com provide a wide array of options. For a luxurious experience, the Grand Hotel Majestic, located just off the main square, is an 18th-century palazzo boasting frescoes in the restaurant painted by the Carracci brothers. Budget-conscious travelers might consider Bed & Breakfast Alberta D, a cozy home situated in a former medieval hospital with exceptionally friendly hosts, or the slightly more upscale Antica Residenza d’Azeglio, just a five-minute walk from the center. Albergo delle Drapperie is a no-frills B&B offering an unbeatable location just off Piazza Maggiore.
## Savoring Bologna’s Culinary Delights: A Gastronomic Paradise
Many Italians consider Emilia-Romagna, and Bologna in particular, to be the gastronomic heart of the entire nation. Traditional dishes such as tortelloni, tagliatelle al ragù, and passatelli, not to mention the globally recognized Bolognese sauce, have spread across the world. However, be aware that ordering “spaghetti Bolognese” may elicit surprised glances from your waiter, as the sauce (typically referred to simply as ragù) is traditionally served exclusively with tagliatelle.
For a top-end dining experience, the long-revered Bitone, opened in 1834, is the perfect place to splurge on an expensive dinner. Osteria Satyricon offers another exceptional culinary journey. For more rustic options, try the venerable Da Cesari or Drogheria della Rosa, known for its homemade pastas. A bit further out, All’ Osteria Bottega is lauded for its simple and tasty local cuisine. To save money, explore Bologna’s central food market, Mercato delle Erbe, which features the usual produce and fish vendors, but also offers snack stalls and dining areas. For no-frills, tavern-like eats, nothing beats Osteria dell’Orsa, widely regarded as serving the best ragù alla bolognese in town.
## Bologna by Night: Embracing the City’s Vibrant Nightlife
Thanks in part to its large student population, Bologna boasts a vibrant and diverse nightlife. Aperitivo, a tradition where a glass of wine and an assortment of snacks can be enjoyed for just a few Euros in local cafes and bars, typically begins around 6 pm. Camera a Sud is a hip student hangout situated in the old Jewish quarter, while Café de Paris attracts a young crowd with its sleek, modern white couches and elegant interior.
The tastiest dry martinis in Bologna are served at Nu Lounge Bar, while Cantina Bentivoglio hosts the best live jazz performances. Bologna’s oldest bar, Osteria de Poeti, has been in operation since around 1600, offering live music and the requisite brick-vaulted ceilings, stone walls, and ancient wine barrels. Bologna also boasts a lively club scene. While locations often change, Numa Club and Qubò are good places to begin your exploration.