Tobacco Country is one of Cuba’s most visited regions. It draws hundreds of thousands of visitors annually, all eager to enjoy adventure activities and admire the area’s spectacular scenery and culture. Get inspired by the following itineraries, along with your best options for lodging, dining, and entertainment.
## Discovering the Splendors of Tobacco Country, Cuba: An Extended Exploration
Cuba, a land of vibrant culture, captivating history, and breathtaking landscapes, holds a treasure trove of experiences for the discerning traveler. Among its many gems, the tobacco country, nestled approximately two hours west of the bustling capital city of **Havana**, stands out as a region of unparalleled beauty and intrigue. Here, amidst rolling hills and fertile plains, you’ll uncover some of the most stunning scenery the island nation has to offer, a visual symphony orchestrated by nature and shaped by generations of tradition.
Prepare to be mesmerized by the dramatic limestone formations known as *mogotes*. These majestic monoliths, sculpted by time and the elements, rise abruptly from the earth, casting long shadows across the **Valle de Viñales**. The valley floor itself is a patchwork of vibrant colors, a quilt woven from rust-red soil and the verdant green of flourishing tobacco fields. Witness the timeless beauty of these fields as they are meticulously tilled using traditional methods, with sturdy oxen pulling plows through the rich earth, a scene that seems to have been lifted straight from the pages of history.
But the allure of Cuba’s tobacco country extends far beyond its picturesque landscapes. Venture into the depths of ancient caves, explore the inner workings of traditional tobacco farms, and immerse yourself in a world of exciting activities, from the adrenaline rush of ATV adventures to the exhilarating thrill of soaring through the air on zip-lines.
For those with a passion for history, a visit to a key site associated with the legendary Che Guevara and the pivotal 1962 Cuban Missile Crisis is an absolute must. Delve into the historical significance of this location and gain a deeper understanding of Cuba’s role in this defining moment of the Cold War era.
And if relaxation is what you seek, the sugar-white beaches that fringe the coastline beckon you to unwind and soak up the Caribbean sun. Transform your visit to tobacco country into the ultimate rejuvenating vacation, where you can escape the stresses of everyday life and immerse yourself in the tranquility of this island paradise.
## Navigating Your Journey: Reaching the Heart of Tobacco Country
Embarking on your adventure to tobacco country offers a choice of two distinct routes, each with its own unique charm and character.
The quickest option is the Autopista Este-Oeste, a modern six-lane freeway that stretches westward towards **Pinar del Río**, the provincial capital and the undisputed gateway to tobacco country. From **Pinar del Río**, the region extends northward, encompassing the majestic **Sierra de los Órganos** mountain chain and leading you into the captivating **Valle de Viñales**. To the west, the region stretches into the expansive flatlands of **Vuelto Abajo**, a land renowned for its fertile soil and exceptional tobacco production.
For a more leisurely and scenic experience, opt for the Costera Norte, also known as Ruta 2-1-3. This roller-coaster road meanders along the northern coastline, winding inland from the Atlantic Ocean. Prepare to be captivated by the sublime views as you pass through time-worn villages, traverse vast sugarcane fields, and skirt the base of giant, freestanding mogotes.
Public transportation is readily available, with Víazul buses providing regular service between **Havana** and the city of **Pinar del Río**, as well as the charming town of **Viñales**. These buses travel via the Autopista, offering a convenient and efficient way to reach your destination. A trip that combines both **Pinar del Río** and **Viñales** is highly recommended, allowing you to experience the diverse attractions of the region. For those seeking greater freedom and flexibility, renting a car is an excellent option.
Departing **Havana** via the Costera Norte is a straightforward endeavor. Simply follow Avenida 5ta westward, and it will eventually transform into Ruta 2-1-3, guiding you along the scenic coastal route. However, navigating your way to the Autopista for **Pinar del Río** can be a bit more challenging. If you are departing from **Havana’s** International Airport, take Avenida Rancho Boyeros north, then exit onto Avenida 100 west. Follow Avenida 100 for approximately half a mile to reach the entrance to the Autopista Este-Oeste. From downtown **Havana**, the most efficient route involves taking Avenida 5ta west to Calle 17A. Follow Calle 17A (which eventually becomes Calle 190) to the traffic circle, then turn right onto Avenida 23, which will lead you directly to the Autopista.
## Unveiling the Treasures: Sights and Activities Await
### Pinar del Río: A City Steeped in History and Tradition
**Pinar del Río**, the capital city of the province bearing the same name, owes its moniker to the pine trees that once flourished in abundance here. Founded in the late 17th century, the city quickly established itself as a center for tobacco production, a legacy that continues to this day. Today, **Pinar del Río** presents itself as a pleasant and manageable city, inviting visitors to explore its sloping and easily walkable historic core, which is home to a collection of intriguing buildings that whisper tales of the past.
One notable landmark is the Gothic **Museo de Ciencias Naturales**, adorned with whimsical gargoyles. Inside, you’ll discover a motley assortment of exhibits showcasing the region’s unique geology and fascinating fauna. For a glimpse into the world of cigar making, don’t miss the **Fábrica de Tabacos Francisco Donatién**, the only cigar factory in the area. Embark on a guided tour and witness the intricate process of crafting these iconic Cuban cigars. Just a short stroll away, the **Fábrica de Bebidas Guayabita** produces the region’s renowned fruit-flavored rum. While formal tours are not offered, you are welcome to sample the distinctive flavors in the tasting room.
### Viñales: A Picturesque Village Nestled Amidst Mogotes
**Viñales**, a small village nestled within a broad valley framed by the towering presence of sheer-faced mogotes, lies approximately 15 miles north of **Pinar del Río** town. In recent years, **Viñales** has experienced a surge in popularity as a tourist destination, yet it has managed to retain its charming air of yesteryear. As you stroll along the main street, you’ll encounter cowboys on horseback and ox-drawn wagons, a testament to the enduring traditions of the region. The street is lined with colonial-era homes, their tile roofs and colonnaded porches adding to the village’s timeless appeal.
**Viñales** serves as the main hub for exploring the surrounding area, offering a plethora of charming little B&Bs and excellent private restaurants. For breathtaking panoramic views of the valley, consider a visit to the state-run hotel perched atop the valley. Nature enthusiasts will appreciate the **Jardín Botánico de Viñales**, which offers guided tours of its private garden, showcasing a diverse collection of fruit trees, medicinal plants, and orchids. **Finca Agroecológico El Paraíso**, a private organic farm, also provides fascinating educational tours, offering insights into sustainable agricultural practices. Immerse yourself in the local culture at the **Casa de Cultura**, located beside the church on the lively town plaza, which hosts cultural exhibitions showcasing the region’s artistic talent.
### Parque Nacional de Viñales: A Natural Masterpiece
**Viñales National Park**, widely acclaimed as the most scenic setting in Cuba, is a destination that truly lives up to its reputation. For good reason, it ranks as the second most-visited destination outside **Havana**. The park’s dramatic karst scenery, characterized by its towering mogotes and verdant valleys, is reason enough to warrant a visit to this UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park encompasses several contiguous valleys located to the east, north, and west of **Viñales** village, creating an opulent oasis of Royal palms that provide shade to centuries-old thatched-roof homes and meticulously cultivated tobacco fields.
Begin your exploration by visiting the **Centro de Visitantes**—Visitor Center—located atop the snaking road that connects the village and Hotel Los Jazmines. Here, you’ll find excellent informative displays that provide valuable insights into the park’s natural and cultural history. Guides can be arranged at the visitor center to accompany you on your explorations, enhancing your understanding of the park’s many wonders.
To fully appreciate the sights, plan to spend at least two days exploring the park, which boasts a number of captivating caverns. **Cuevas del Indio** offers an exhilarating subterranean boat trip, while **Cueva de Colondrinas** is named for the swallows that roost within its depths. **Cuevas de Viñales** hosts a mesmerizing laser-light cabaret by night. The polarizing **Mural de la Prehistória**, a mogote adorned with a gaudily painted depiction of evolution, is a sight to behold. Nearby, a charming thatched restaurant serves classic *criolla* (local) dishes.
Hiking trails crisscross the park, offering opportunities to immerse yourself in the natural beauty of the region. Popular trails lead to the mountain community of **Los Aquáticos** and to **Valle de El Silencio**, a private farm with a restaurant overlooking a serene lake. For a more adventurous experience, consider renting ATVs, but keep in mind that horseback riding is a more environmentally sensitive option. Alternatively, experience the thrill of the **El Fortín Canopy Tour**, where a zip-line spans across two mogotes. The ViñalesBusTour offers a convenient way to explore the park’s major sights, departing on a regular basis from the village and completing an hour-long circuit. You have the flexibility to hop off at any of the stops along the route and catch the next bus at your leisure.
### Caverna de Santo Tomás: An Underground Wonderland
Located 10 miles west of **Viñales** village, **Caverna de Santo Tomás**, Cuba’s largest underground cave system, beckons with its intricate network of sinuous tunnels, chambers, and caverns. Spanning more than 30 miles, this subterranean wonderland is adorned with a mesmerizing array of stalactites, stalagmites, and flowstones that resemble plicated curtains. Guided 90-minute tours are available, with helmets and lamps provided to illuminate your exploration of this natural marvel.
### Cuevas de los Portales: A Glimpse into History
This vast and dramatic riverside cavern, situated on the northwest perimeter of **Parque Nacional La Güira**, holds historical significance as Che Guevara’s headquarters during the 1962 Cuban Missile Crisis, when he commanded the Western Army. Within the cavern, you can still see Che’s rudimentary block-house office and the niche in the cavern wall where his bed once stood. The park itself protects 208 square miles of limestone uplands within the **Sierra de los Órganos** mountain chain, but it is not fully equipped to receive tourists, with the exception of a small section in its southeastern quarter, near the much-faded former colonial spa town of **San Antonio de los Baños**.
### Vuelto Abajo: The Heart of Cuban Tobacco
While **Viñales** often steals the spotlight, the **Vuelto Abajo** region, situated immediately west of **Pinar del Río** town, is equally stunning. Renowned for its rich soil and ideal microclimate, this region is where the finest tobacco in all of Cuba is grown. Centered around the colonial-era town of **San Juan y Martínez**, the rolling plain transforms into an endless quilt of tobacco fields, punctuated by thatched-roof drying sheds.
Just west of town, **Finca Quemado de Rubi** offers guided tours, serves lunch, and provides cabins for overnight stays. A particularly rewarding visit can be had at **Finca El Pinar San Luís**, the renowned private farm of the Robaina family. Here, pre-arranged guided tours offer an in-depth lesson on the intricacies of tobacco growing and cigar rolling.
### Rancho La Guabina: A Haven for Equestrians
Located six miles northwest of **Pinar del Río** town, **Rancho La Guabina**, a horse-breeding center and recreational park nestled amidst lake-studded hills, will delight equestrians. Here, you can embark on horseback and horse-drawn carriage rides and admire the Appaloosa and Pinto Cubano horses that are bred on the premises. Enhance your experience by staying at the lovely boutique hotel, allowing you to immerse yourself in the equestrian atmosphere for more than just a day.
### Cayo Levisa: A Tropical Paradise
A popular day trip or overnight add-on when visiting **Viñales**, this small, uninhabited offshore cay is a true gem, beckoning with its talcum beaches that dissolve into a bathtub-warm turquoise sea. Twice-daily ferries provide convenient access to the cay, allowing you to catch the early morning ferry and return in the late afternoon. Alternatively, opt to stay overnight in the delightful hotel, which offers scuba diving and watersports activities.
### Cayo Jutia: A Coastal Escape
Perfect for a day trip from **Viñales** or **Pinar del Río**, **Cayo Jutia** is a small island connected to the mainland by a *pedraplén* (causeway) that weaves its way through mangroves. While there is no lodging available on the cay, you can enjoy diving and snorkeling, as well as kayaking, at the beach bar. The beach and shallow ocean waters are simply sublime. Local tour companies offer excursions to this idyllic coastal escape.
## Crafting Your Perfect Itinerary: Planning Your Time in Tobacco Country
The amount of time you dedicate to exploring tobacco country depends on your individual interests and priorities. If you wish to include an excursion to **Parque Nacional Guanahacabibes**, located at the western tip of the island, you will need to allocate additional time.
Most visitors choose the village of **Viñales** as their base and spend two or three days exploring the area’s highlights via hired taxi, scooter, or tour bus. Add an extra day if you want to explore **Pinar del Río** town and **Vuelto Abajo**, and another day for a visit to **Cayo Levisa** or **Cayo Jutía**.
As for the best time to visit, any time of year offers its own unique appeal. However, the winter months generally boast the most favorable weather, with plenty of sunny days and relatively little rain. If you are particularly interested in tobacco, the months of February through April are ideal, as this is when the plants are fully grown and the harvest is underway. Keep in mind that winter is also the busiest period, and **Viñales** can become quite crowded during peak season. To ensure you secure your preferred lodging, it is advisable to book well in advance. The summer months tend to be hot and rainy, but securing your choice of lodging is typically easier. While prices generally remain consistent, the three state-run hotels often offer summer discounts.
## Exploring Your Options: Guided Tours and Independent Adventures
Visitors to tobacco country can choose from a variety of options for guided tours, including multi-day packages offered by bus from **Havana** through Cuba’s state-run agencies. These same agencies maintain offices in both **Pinar del Río** and **Viñales**. Day excursions and package activities include guided ATV rides, hikes, horseback rides, and Jeep safaris. Private licensed entrepreneurs also offer horseback rides, and you can hire cars, scooters, and ATVs in **Viñales**. While ATVs can be noisy, traversing remote muddy trails on these vehicles can be an incredibly fun experience.
## Finding Your Home Away From Home: Where to Stay
Tobacco country offers a wide range of lodging options, from simple family-owned guesthouses to state-run boutique hotels, farmsteads, and even a beachside resort. The largest concentration of accommodations can be found in and around **Viñales** village, where several hundred *casas particulares* (private B&Bs) rent rooms. Many of these B&Bs also function as excellent restaurants and offer stunning views of the surrounding countryside.
In **Pinar del Río** town, the most appealing accommodations are the renovated, antique-filled boutique hotels. Alternatively, consider staying at one of the tobacco farms located outside of town. Some farms offer accommodations in converted mansions, while others feature more rustic options, such as elevated thatched-roof cabins. Several farms also serve delicious country meals alfresco, including roast suckling pig.
On **Cayo Levisa**, there is only one lodging option: **Cubanacán Cayo Levisa**, a small all-inclusive resort with three styles of log cabins, including handsome junior suites with four-poster beds. While the food may be lackluster, watersports are included in the resort’s offerings.
## Indulging Your Palate: Where to Eat
The dining scene in **Pinar del Río** city and on **Cayo Levisa** remains relatively undeveloped, with limited options available (on the island, you are primarily limited to buffets). Fortunately, the **Viñales** area boasts a plethora of excellent dining choices.
For a meal with a view and a taste of delicious country fare featuring organic ingredients, head to **Finca Agroecológico El Paraíso**, where classic criolla dishes, such as slow-roasted pork, are prepared using produce grown on the farm. *Ropa vieja* (marinated braised beef prepared with onions and sweet peppers) and other criolla staples are highlights at the not-to-be-missed **Paladar Buena Vista**, located just outside **Viñales** village. The views from this restaurant are truly sensational.
In the village, where the dining scene is constantly evolving, a standout option is **3J Tapas Bar**, which offers Spanish-inspired *tapas* dishes, such as stuffed olives and ravioli with spinach. The bar features a vibrant neon-lit atmosphere and cool music, and it is conveniently located steps away from the **Casa de la Cultura**, which hosts live entertainment, including a nightly cabaret. Down the street, **Restaurante El Olivo** offers a menu featuring Italian dishes, as well as Mediterranean-style tapas. Both restaurants are hugely popular, and reservations are highly recommended.
In **Vuelto Abajo**, **Finca Quemado de Rubi** stands out as the premier dining destination. It’s well worth the drive from **Pinar del Río** to savor delicious country meals served alfresco, including roast suckling pig. After your meal, linger over a cigar and a fine *añejo* rum.
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