Near the eastern tip of the island and situated closer to Haiti than Havana, Santiago de Cuba is distinct in its architecture and cultural vibe. Founded in 1514 as the second city in Cuba, the hill city fuses French-Haitian with African and Spanish influences. The historic center may be a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but there are many fantastic sights to see here, many associated with the Cuban Revolution.
## Santiago de Cuba: A Deep Dive into Cuba’s Soul
Santiago de Cuba, the vibrant heart of eastern Cuba, stands as the island’s second-largest city, pulsating with a unique energy that even the bustling streets of Havana can’t replicate. While it may be just one-sixth the size of the capital, Santiago de Cuba possesses a wealth of historical significance, cultural richness, and captivating attractions that firmly establish it as a must-visit destination for any traveler seeking an authentic Cuban experience.
This dynamic city has played a pivotal role in Cuba’s history, serving as the stage for crucial events in both the Spanish-American War and the Cuban Revolution. Its streets echo with the sounds of traditional Cuban music, born and nurtured within its vibrant communities. And despite the intense heat that often blankets the city, Santiago de Cuba radiates an undeniable zest for life.
Here, you’ll discover El Morro Castle, the oldest standing European construction in Cuba, a sentinel standing proudly overlooking the Caribbean Sea. You can pay respects at the hallowed graves of national heroes like José Martí and Fidel Castro, figures whose legacies are deeply intertwined with the city’s identity. And if you’re fortunate enough to visit in July, you’ll be swept away by the infectious energy of Cuba’s most exuberant Carnival, a celebration of music, dance, and unbridled joy.
### Navigating Your Journey: Getting To and Around Santiago de Cuba
Santiago de Cuba’s allure is particularly strong among French travelers, who benefit from direct flights from Europe to the city’s international airport. For those journeying from North America, convenient flight options are available to Holguín, a city boasting scenic beauty and located approximately a four-hour drive from Santiago de Cuba. The journey from Holguín to Santiago de Cuba is an experience in itself, unveiling the beautiful landscapes of the Cuban countryside.
For intercity travel within Cuba, Víazul buses provide a reliable and comfortable connection between Santiago de Cuba and Havana, as well as other provincial capitals. Adventurous souls, with a penchant for the unpredictable, might consider the train, which embarks on a circuitous route from Havana through Santa Clara and Camagüey. However, be warned: the train service is notoriously unreliable, often subject to delays and cancellations.
Alternatively, the open road beckons with the option of renting a car and embarking on a cross-country adventure. The journey between Havana and Santiago de Cuba stretches approximately 600 miles, offering a chance to witness the diverse landscapes of the island. It’s worth noting that the Autopista Nacional, Cuba’s main highway, gradually fades into a more rustic road as you enter Sancti Spíritus province. Beyond this point, the Carretera Central, a single-lane road in each direction, becomes your primary route eastward. Thankfully, traffic is generally light, allowing for a relatively smooth and scenic drive.
Once you arrive in Santiago de Cuba, navigating the city presents its own unique charm. The city’s hilly terrain makes bicitaxis (rickshaw-like bicycle taxis) impractical. Instead, mototaxis, small motorcycles that zip through the streets, reign supreme as the local mode of transportation. These mototaxi drivers are known for their daring maneuvers, promising (or threatening, depending on your perspective) a thrilling ride for first-timers. Classic cars, with their experienced drivers, can be hired outside major tourist hotels, offering a nostalgic and comfortable way to explore the city. Traditional tourist taxis are also readily available for hailing throughout the city.
### Crafting Your Santiago de Cuba Itinerary
The sheer abundance of captivating sights in Santiago de Cuba means that planning your itinerary requires careful consideration of your available time. A two-day visit offers a tantalizing glimpse into the city’s highlights. Begin your exploration around Parque Céspedes, the heart of the historic district, where you’ll find the majestic cathedral, the Casa de Don Diego Velázquez (Cuba’s oldest house), the Museo Municipal Emilio Bacardí Moreau, and the vibrant streets of Calle Heredia and Calle Padre Pico. After a satisfying lunch, dedicate the afternoon to visiting historical landmarks such as the Cuartel Moncada (Moncada army barracks) and San Juan Hill, sites that resonate with revolutionary fervor. On your second day, venture to the outlying sites, including the Plaza de la Revolución, the Santa Ifigenia Cemetery, and El Morro Castle, where you can witness the poignant sunset cannon-firing ceremony.
Extending your stay to three days allows for a more relaxed pace and deeper immersion into Santiago de Cuba’s cultural fabric. Spend a morning exploring the Reparto Los Hoyos, a historic district brimming with small museums and the Tumba Frances cultural center. In the afternoon, wander through Reparto Vista Alegre, an upscale district showcasing eclectic museums and gracefully aging mansions.
With four or more days at your disposal, you can venture further afield and discover the region’s hidden gems. Consider a trip to Playa Siboney, a tranquil beach, combined with visits to Granjita Siboney (the farm from which Fidel Castro launched the attack on the Moncada barracks) and the Spanish-American War museum. The Parque Baconao and Gran Piedra, with their stunning natural beauty, also beckon. An additional day provides the opportunity to visit the Basilica del Cobre, Cuba’s most revered religious shrine, and perhaps take a scenic drive along the Caribbean coast to Chivírico.
### Unveiling Santiago de Cuba’s Top Sights
**Casco Histórico (Historic District):**
The Casco Histórico, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, rises majestically from the harborfront, encompassing a grid of narrow, colonial-era streets that define several distinct districts. At its heart lies Parque Céspedes, the city’s main square, named in honor of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, the “Father of the Nation” who liberated his slaves in 1868 to ignite the War of Independence.
On the northern edge of the square stands the Ayuntamiento, a meticulous replica of the original 18th-century town hall. It was from this balcony that Fidel Castro delivered his triumphant victory speech on January 2, 1959, marking the end of the Batista regime. The Basilica Metroplitana Santa Ifigenia, also known as Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, dominates the square with its grandeur. Dating back to 1922, this cathedral stands as a testament to the city’s rich religious heritage.
The Casa de Don Diego Velázquez, constructed between 1516 and 1530 as the residence of the eponymous governor, is Cuba’s oldest building and now houses a remarkable museum showcasing the city’s colonial past.
The Museo Municipal Emilio Bacardí Moreau is another essential stop. Housed in a Neoclassical building, this museum features two floors of artifacts dedicated to local history and the global travels of its namesake patron, Emilio Bacardí Moreau (1844-1922), the founder of the Bacardí rum corporation.
Calle Heredia, a significant street leading uphill from Parque Céspedes, is lined with noteworthy historical buildings. The Casa de la Trova, widely regarded as the birthplace of son, Cuba’s most important traditional music genre, holds a special place in the city’s cultural landscape. The Museo de Carnaval showcases the vibrant costumes and other exhibits that tell the story of Santiago de Cuba’s renowned carnival celebration.
Plaza Dolores is a charming little plaza adorned with wrought-iron benches nestled beneath shady trees. Hosting several restaurants and bars, it serves as a popular gathering spot for the city’s LGBTQ+ community. Rising to the east is the Colegio Jesuita Dolores, a former Jesuit college where Fidel Castro received his education and which now functions as a conservatory.
The Museo del Ron, a small museum, recounts the fascinating story of rum production in the region. La Maqueta de la Ciudad offers a detailed scale model of the Casco Histórico, capturing every building with remarkable accuracy. The adjacent Balcón de Velázquez provides sensational panoramic views of the city and the surrounding landscape.
Head up Calle Padre Pico to reach La Escalinita, a staircase infamous as the site of the police murder of three members of Fidel Castro’s revolutionary Movement in 1956. Atop the stairs stands the Museo Lucha Clandestina, a former police station transformed into the Museum of the Clandestine Struggle against the Batista dictatorship. Avenida Jesús Menéndez, a broad waterfront boulevard, offers a pleasant stroll in the early morning or at dusk. At the west end, you’ll find Fábrica de Ron Caney, the former Bacardí rum factory, which continues to produce rum. While tours are not offered, you can sample the goods in a tasting room. To the east, a French-Renaissance clock tower anchors the manicured Parque Alameda.
**Reparto Sueño:**
In this district, you’ll find the Plaza de Marte, a lively 19th-century plaza that originally served as a Spanish military parade ground. Today, it features busts of prominent Cuban patriots. The Cuartel Moncada, the site where the Cuban Revolution began, is a must-see. It was at this former army barracks that Fidel Castro and 122 fellow revolutionaries launched a daring attack on July 26, 1953. Now a school, the Cuartel Moncada also houses the Museo Histórico 26 de Julio, offering guided tours in English.
**Reparto Vista Alegre:**
In Vista Alegre, you’ll encounter the Bosque de los Mártires de Bolivia, a bas-relief monument on Avenida de las Ámericas dedicated to Che Guevara and his band of revolutionaries who perished in Bolivia in 1967. Avenida Manduley stretches the length of this once-exclusive residential district. The former home of Casa de José ‘Pepín’ Bosch, the president of the Bacardí rum corporation, stands prominently on the corner of Calle 11. The Casa Cultura Africana, located on the corner of Calle 5, celebrates Cuba’s rich African heritage. Stop by the nearby Museo de las Religiones Populares (Calle 13) to delve into the world of Afro-Cuban religions. The Parque Histórico Loma de San Juan marks the site of the famous charge of Teddy Roosevelt’s “Rough Riders” during the Spanish-American War in 1868. Cannons and impressive memorials commemorate the event.
**Sights on the City Outskirts:**
The Cementerio de Santa Ifigenia, considered one of the city’s top five attractions, is remarkable for its wealth of noteworthy tombs. Many historical figures are interred here, including Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, José Martí, Fidel Castro, and countless members of the revolutionary movement. A changing of the guard ceremony takes place every 30 minutes and should not be missed. Parque Histórico El Morro, a massive castle dating back to 1664, sits atop the headland. Today a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it houses a piracy museum, and a cannon is fired at sunset by soldiers dressed in Mambí (Independence Army) uniforms.
A ferry service connects El Morro castle with Cayo Granma, a small island and fishing community that offers a glimpse into a slice of Cuban life rarely seen by tourists. It features casas particulares (private homestays) and two restaurants.
**Sites Further Afield:**
The Basilica del Cobre, a cathedral and Cuba’s holiest shrine, is located a 40-minute drive from downtown. Dedicated to the black Virgin of Charity, it features an altar filled with votive offerings, including Ernest Hemingway’s Nobel Prize. Playa Siboney, a tiny beach community that attracts families for weekend celebrations by the sea, is located a 30-minute drive southeast of the city. Nearby, Granjita Siboney, the farmhouse from which Fidel Castro and his companions launched their attack on the Moncada barracks, is now a museum. A short distance away, the Museo de la Guerra Cubano-Español-Americano showcases fascinating displays commemorating the Spanish-American War.
### When to Plan Your Visit
Santiago de Cuba generally experiences fewer tourists than Havana or Trinidad, meaning that finding accommodation is usually not a problem, even during the cooler winter months (high season). However, the city’s most important festival, Carnival, takes place in July, so it is essential to book your lodging well in advance if you plan to attend.
Temperatures remain warm throughout the year. Even in winter, daily temperatures average around 80° Fahrenheit. In summer, the daily average climbs to nearly 90° Fahrenheit, making walking the streets during midday a truly exhausting experience. If you visit during the summer months, it is advisable to rise early to explore in the morning hours and then relax during the midday heat before venturing out again in the late afternoon.
### Where to Stay in Santiago de Cuba
In the Casco Histórico, the Hotel Casa Granda stands as the premier choice. This grand hotel overlooks Parque Céspedes and has undergone extensive renovations, promising deluxe standards of accommodation. Numerous other hotels in the area offer comparable levels of modern luxury. Budget-conscious and independent travelers are best served by staying in B&Bs. The antique-filled Casa Colonial Maruchi, with its charming owner who is an expert on Afro-Cuban culture, is a highly recommended option.
### Culinary Delights: Where to Eat
While Santiago de Cuba has not yet reached the culinary heights of Havana, a growing number of paladares (private restaurants) are emerging and enhancing the dining scene. St. Pauli, a paladar tucked away in an alley off Plaza Marte, offers a menu featuring lobster, ropa vieja (marinated shredded beef prepared with sweet peppers, garlic, and onions), and other Cuban staples. Roy’s Terrace Inn is a popular B&B/restaurant option that serves traditional Cuban fare (reservations recommended). Coppelia La Arboleda, the Santiago de Cuba branch of the Cuban ice cream chain, is wildly popular with santiagueros (locals from Santiago de Cuba).
### Santiago by Night: Embracing the City’s Rhythm
Santigueros are known for their love of nightlife. The Casa de la Trova, the birthplace of Cuba’s tradition of romantic trova ballads and son music, is a must-visit experience. Look for performances by the city’s vibrant Haitian-heritage cultural groups, such as Ballet Folklórica Cutumba or Tumba Francesa. Jazz enthusiasts can relax to cool riffs at the Iris Jazz Club. The Hotel Meliá’s Santiago Café is one of the city’s best nightclubs for salsa dancing. For a glamorous Las Vegas-style cabaret experience, check out the open-air Tropicana. If you’re simply in the mood for a good beer, head to Cervecería Puerto del Rey, a brewpub on the waterfront that hosts live music.
### Essential Santiago de Cuba Tips
* The early morning hours provide the best lighting for photography. If you are a photography enthusiast, take a siesta in the afternoon and then emerge again in the late afternoon to capture the golden sunlight illuminating Santiago de Cuba’s colonial houses.
* Stay hydrated by drinking plenty of bottled water. Protect yourself from the sun by wearing sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat.
* Santiago de Cuba has its share of jiniteros (street hustlers). Many may try to take advantage of tourists in various ways, such as attempting to sell fake cigars. A firm but polite “No gracias!” should be enough to deter them.
By embracing these tips and immersing yourself in the city’s rich history, vibrant culture, and captivating attractions, you’re sure to create lasting memories of your journey to Santiago de Cuba, a truly unforgettable destination.
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