Santa Cruz De Mompox has passed the centuries in relative obscurity, changing little since its days as an important inland port on Colombia’s Magdalena River. Today this sleepy town will delight you with its colorful churches, bayou setting and laid-back culture of rocking chairs, card playing and story swapping. Plan a visit and prepare to be fascinated with a past of revolutionaries and artisans.
## Unveiling the Enchanting Allure of Mompox: Colombia’s Hidden Gem
**Overview**
Nestled inland, away from the bustling Caribbean coast, lies Mompox, a city steeped in history and brimming with captivating charm. For centuries, this unique locale served as a vital port along the Magdalena River, playing a pivotal role in Colombia’s development. Its origins trace back to the 1500s when it was established as a safe haven, a sanctuary for traders and affluent Spaniards seeking refuge from the relentless pirate attacks that plagued the Caribbean coastline.
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A pervasive local legend whispers of hidden riches, tales that fuel the imagination and add to the city’s mystique. It is said that the Spanish Marquesas, seeking to safeguard their precious gold from marauders, concealed it within the very walls of their homes and the sacred confines of their churches. Many inhabitants of Mompox still believe that these treasures remain hidden to this day, waiting to be discovered.
The ebb and flow of the Magdalena River played a crucial role in Mompox’s fortunes. During the 19th century, shifts in the river’s course led to increased erosion, forcing ships to seek alternative routes for trade. This shift in maritime traffic had a profound impact on the city, leading many of its residents to seek their fortunes elsewhere. For over a century, Mompox receded from the world’s stage, becoming a secluded haven, largely forgotten by the outside world.
This period of isolation has contributed significantly to Mompox’s unique character. Some travelers, particularly those familiar with the works of Gabriel Garcia Marquez, might find echoes of the mythical town of Macondo within Mompox’s timeless streets. Marquez himself, a master of magical realism, famously remarked, “Mompox does not exist, sometimes we dream of it, but it does not exist.” This statement, both enigmatic and evocative, captures the ethereal quality of Mompox, a place that seems to exist both in reality and in the realm of dreams.
In the past, reaching Mompox was an adventure in itself, often requiring a journey by ferry. The locals, with a twinkle in their eyes, will regale you with stories of these ferries, prone to mechanical mishaps that left passengers stranded, spinning in circles on the river. It wasn’t until 2015 that the first bridge finally connected Mompox to the rest of Colombia, ending its centuries-long isolation.
While destinations like Cartagena and Santa Marta attract a significant number of international visitors, Mompox remains relatively untouched by mass tourism. However, as access to the city improves, the residents of Mompox are eagerly preparing to share the magic of their island home with the world, inviting travelers to discover its unique history, culture, and charm.
**Planning Your Visit**
To ensure a comfortable and enjoyable experience in Mompox, a little preparation is key. Here are a few things to keep in mind as you plan your trip:
* **Health Precautions:** While yellow fever vaccinations are not currently required for the department of Bolivar, Mompox’s proximity to the Magdalena River means that mosquitoes are plentiful. It’s highly recommended to pack a reliable insect repellent and take extra precautions to protect yourself from bites. Consider wearing long sleeves and pants during dawn and dusk, when mosquitoes are most active.
* **Financial Matters:** ATMs are conveniently located near the main shopping streets and city squares in Mompox. While some businesses accept credit cards, it’s wise to carry sufficient cash to cover purchases, especially in smaller establishments and for street vendors. Be aware of potential ATM fees and inform your bank of your travel plans to avoid any issues with your card.
* **Getting Around:** Navigating Mompox is remarkably easy. The city’s layout consists primarily of two major streets running parallel to each other, making it ideally suited for exploration on foot. Take your time to wander through the charming streets, soak in the atmosphere, and discover hidden gems along the way. Bike rentals are also available for those who prefer a faster mode of transportation.
* **Language Considerations:** While not essential, having a basic understanding of Spanish will greatly enhance your experience in Mompox. Alternatively, consider hiring an English-speaking guide to learn more about the city’s history and culture. The locals who do speak English are often enthusiastic about practicing their language skills with visitors, providing a unique opportunity for cultural exchange.
**When to Visit**
Choosing the right time to visit Mompox can significantly impact your experience. Here’s a breakdown of what to expect throughout the year:
* **Weather:** Mompox experiences consistently warm temperatures, averaging between 80°F and 95°F year-round. High levels of humidity are also prevalent, so be prepared for a tropical climate. Pack lightweight, breathable clothing, sunscreen with a high SPF, and, of course, your trusty insect repellent.
* **Best Time to Visit:** Since the weather in Mompox remains relatively constant throughout the year, it shouldn’t be the primary factor influencing your travel dates. However, it’s advisable to avoid December and January if possible. During the holiday season, hotels tend to be fully booked, and prices often surge. Many hotels may also impose a minimum stay requirement of three or four nights during this peak period. If you must travel during this time, make sure to book your accommodations well in advance. A particularly appealing time to visit Mompox is during the vibrant Jazz Festival in September.
* **Festivals & Special Events:** Mompox is known for its lively festivals and celebrations, offering visitors a unique glimpse into the local culture.
* **March/April: Santa Semana (The Holy Week):** This deeply religious observance is a spectacle of faith and tradition. Street processions commence before dawn and continue late into the night, filling the streets with solemn music and fervent prayers. A highlight of the week is the Illumination of the Cemetery, held on Wednesday of Holy Week. As the sun sets, residents, dressed in their finest attire, gather in the local cemetery to light candles in remembrance of their departed loved ones, creating a poignant and mesmerizing scene.
* **September: The Mompox Jazz Festival:** Music lovers will rejoice at the Mompox Jazz Festival, held annually in September. This event attracts renowned artists from across the globe and offers a more intimate and relaxed atmosphere than similar festivals in larger cities like Bogotá and Medellín. Hotels fill up quickly as locals and international jazz enthusiasts flock to Mompox to enjoy the music and mingle with legendary performers.
**How Many Days Do You Need?**
Mompox is a compact city, making it possible to see its main attractions in a single day. However, to fully appreciate the city’s charm and immerse yourself in its unique atmosphere, consider extending your stay for a second day. This will allow you to relax, wander at your own pace, and connect with the friendly locals. Keep in mind that traveling to Mompox from the Caribbean coast typically requires at least half a day.
**Things to See & Do Around Mompox**
Mompox offers a wealth of activities and attractions, catering to a variety of interests.
* **Motorized Canoe Tour of the Marshlands:** A sunset canoe tour of the legendary Magdalena River is an absolute must-do experience in Mompox. Embark on this unforgettable journey around 3 pm and witness the breathtaking beauty of the river and its diverse ecosystem as the day gracefully transitions into night.
As you glide past picturesque villages and venture into the tranquil swamps, keep an eye out for the abundant wildlife, including herrings and iguanas. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a refreshing dip in the warm waters of the river. Don’t forget to pack your swimsuit! You’ll return to Mompox just as the streetlights begin to illuminate the old town, casting a magical glow over the historic streets.
* **Learn From Passionate Artisans:** Mompox is renowned for its skilled artisans and their dedication to preserving traditional crafts.
* **Filigrana Goldsmiths:** Mompox is celebrated for its exceptional goldsmiths and the unique art of Filigrana jewelry. This intricate seven-step process is a fusion of North African techniques brought by the Spaniards and traditional Colombian goldsmithing practices. Silver is meticulously melted down and transformed into delicate threads, which are then skillfully crafted into stunning and one-of-a-kind works of art.
The people of Mompox are deeply committed to safeguarding this art form, passing down their knowledge and skills from generation to generation. The art of Filigrana is also taught at a local community center, providing disadvantaged youth with valuable skills and opportunities.
* **Cheesemakers:** Indulge in the unique flavors of Mompox’s local cheese, *queso de cappa*, sold by friendly street vendors. This layered cheese, crafted from cow’s milk, is characterized by its mild and subtly sweet flavor. The recipe for *queso de cappa* has been passed down through generations and is exclusively found in Mompox.
The cheesemakers are always willing to share their knowledge, but they’ll also tell you that countless attempts by outsiders to recreate the cheese have consistently failed. Whether it’s the unique humidity of Mompox, the local diet of the cows, or some other intangible element passed down through generations, *queso de cappa* is undeniably special. Don’t miss the opportunity to savor this culinary delight!
* **Ironsmiths:** Ironsmiths have long been an integral part of Mompox’s local economy. Wrought iron adorns windows, door hinges, and numerous other places throughout the town. You might even receive an iron key at your hotel! Surrounded by such exquisite ironwork, it’s hard not to wonder about the skilled hands that created these intricate pieces.
To find the ironsmiths of Mompox, venture beyond the city center and explore the narrow alleyways. You’ll likely find them working diligently, moving rhythmically from the fire to the anvil, a dance they’ve perfected over decades.
Even with 50+ years of experience, the art of ironsmithing requires unwavering concentration. This trade is often a family affair, with fathers working alongside sons and grandfathers imparting their knowledge to grandsons from an early age.
* **Discover the Religious Heritage:** Take the time to explore Mompox’s seven colonial churches at your own pace. These architectural gems offer insights into how the Catholic faith of the Spaniards intertwined with the indigenous and pagan beliefs of the region, creating a truly unique religious culture. Climb the bell tower of Iglesia de Santa Barbara for panoramic views of the historical city center and the surrounding neighborhoods.
* **Uncover fascinating local history at Casa de la Cultura:** Recent restoration projects on the buildings of Mompox have revealed new information about the city’s past inhabitants. Under two of the churches, San Francisco and Santa Barbara, excavators discovered the graves of indigenous Quimbaya tribes, as well as the graves of slaves brought by the conquistadors who first settled in Mompox.
Learn about the restoration projects and the history they uncovered at the Casa de la Cultura. Here you’ll also find replicas of the uniforms and weaponry used by some of the 400 Momposino revolutionaries who fought alongside Simon Bolivar for the independence of Colombia. After achieving independence, Bolivar famously declared, “If to Caracas I owe my life, then to Mompox I owe my glory.” This powerful statement is etched in the hearts of the people of Mompox and will never be forgotten.
**Getting There & Away**
The island of Mompox is accessible by two bridges connecting it to the mainland: one passing through El Banco to the Southeast and the other traversing Santa Ana to the Northwest. The upcoming bridge, expected to be completed soon, will provide a more direct route for those arriving from Medellin.
Mompox is frequently visited by travelers coming from the Caribbean coastal cities of Cartagena, Santa Marta, and Barranquilla. The journey can be made by bus, car, or a combination of bus and ferry, typically taking around five to six hours. Another popular option for those traveling from the central interior of the country is to take an overnight bus from Bucaramanga, which takes approximately eight hours.
Traveling from the south is somewhat less convenient. The journey from Medellín or Bogotá by bus can take between 11 and 14 hours. The closest airport is located in Valledupar, a 3.5-hour drive from Mompox.
**Where to stay**
Mompox offers a range of accommodations, from budget-friendly hostels to luxurious five-bedroom guesthouses. While the selection may not be extensive, the options are surprisingly diverse. The residents of Mompox possess a keen eye for design, and their hotels are a testament to this, each one boasting its own unique character and history.
**Pro-tip:** Keep in mind that not all hotels in Mompox offer rooms with air conditioning. If you or a travel companion are sensitive to the heat, investing in a room with air conditioning will significantly enhance your comfort and ensure that you fully enjoy your trip.
**Where to eat**
Mompox offers a diverse culinary scene, from authentic pizzerias to stylish cafés serving delectable Spanish-style tapas. For a truly unique dining experience, visit Cronicas in the Plaza de la Concepcion. This restaurant, located in the old market building, is operated by students from the “Escuela de Taller,” a school that provides life skills training to children from low-income families. The menu is seasonal and often features dishes that cannot be found anywhere else in the city. The restaurant’s prime location offers stunning views of the Magdalena River and the Plaza below, creating a memorable and enriching dining experience that should not be missed!
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